Fitted Knit Jacket with Gathered Trim
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a fitted knit jacket, elegantly designed with a flattering V-neckline and a chic gathered trim adorning the front opening.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket offers both comfort and style, making it suitable for a range of occasions:
- Smart Casual Gatherings: Ideal for adding a polished yet comfortable layer to your everyday or weekend outfits.
- Business Casual Settings: Perfect for a professional look in the office without sacrificing ease of movement.
- Evening & Dinner Outings: Elevate a simple top and trousers with its sophisticated silhouette and refined detailing.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a close-fitting silhouette through the bodice, extending to the hip.
Neckline: a classic V-neckline, softened by delicate gathers.
Front Detail: a distinctive gathered trim, made from a contrasting fabric, runs along the V-neckline and down the center front opening.
Closure: Front button closure with three buttons.
Sleeves: Long, set-in sleeves designed for a sleek finish.
Seaming: Features elegant princess seams on both the front and back for shaping and a tailored fit.
Hem: Straight hemline, falling at the hip.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires skills in working with knit fabrics, constructing princess seams, creating gathers, setting in sleeves, and making buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
For the main jacket, choose knit fabrics with a structured drape and minimal stretch, and a contrasting fabric for the trim:
- Main Fabric: Dense, low-stretch knit fabrics such as French terry or ponte knit.
- Trim Fabric: Lightweight woven fabrics like silk, satin, or a silk-blend companion fabric for the gathered trim.
Additional Supplies
- 3 buttons
- Companion fabric for trim
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From companion fabric:
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Stitch the princess seams of the front. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch the princess seams of the back. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch, finish, and press the center back seam to the left side. Stitch the shoulder seams of the jacket. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the upper edge of the trim. Press seam allowances open. Stitch along the long edges with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Place the trim on the right side of the jacket, right side down, aligning the inner edge of the trim with the marked line. Topstitch the trim. Fold back the trim, aligning the outer edges of the trim and jacket. Secure along the outer edge 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back. Finish the outer edge.
- Place the front facing with the neckline facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and bottom of the jacket. Stitching is done from the front side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Fold the front facing to the wrong side, clipping at curves. Attach the front facing to the shoulder seam with hand stitches.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and finish. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap in the upper. Press seam allowances and finish.
- Finish the bottom of the jacket, fold inwards and topstitch.
- Finish the bottom of the sleeve, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.
