Full Zip Hoodie with Rib Bands

Full Zip Hoodie with Rib Bands

A men's and unisex hip-length zip-up hoodie in low-stretch knit fabric, with princess seams on the front, pockets set into those seams and a three-piece hood with a drawstring. Rib knit hem band and cuffs, separating zipper.

When To Wear

• For sport, walks and travel, over a T-shirt.
• As a light outer layer in spring and autumn, with jeans or track trousers.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, gathered into a rib hem band.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Hood of two side pieces and a centre panel; a facing stitched down inside forms the casing for a decorative drawstring that exits through two eyelets.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves, eased into folded rib cuffs.

Front: Princess seams from the armhole to the hem; full-length separating zipper with the tape topstitched to the front, the ends of the hem band wrapped around the zipper.

Pockets: In-seam pockets in the lower part of the front princess seams.

Back: One piece cut on the fold.

Finishing: Seams sewn with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch, or on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker; allowances overlocked.

Level Of Difficulty

Beginner. Knit seams, in-seam pockets and rib bands; the zipper set between the front edge and the hem band takes the most care.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric with low stretch, of natural or blended fibres; rib knit for the hem band and cuffs.

Additional Supplies

• Rib knit for the hem band and cuffs
• Separating zipper
• 2 eyelets
• Decorative drawstring

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Side – 2 pieces
4. Hood – 2 pieces
5. Center Hood – 1 piece
6. Hood Facing – 1 piece
7. Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Pocket Bag – 2 pieces

From Rib Knit Fabric:

1. Waistband (marked on Pattern as “Lower Placket”) – 1 piece (cut on fold)
2. Cuffs – 2 pieces

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric, print and lay out the paper patterns according to your fabric width (90–150 cm) to determine required yardage.

Remember to account for paired and symmetrical pieces.

When assembling, pay close attention to all notches — they must match precisely to ensure correct construction and fit.

Tip:

Knit garments should be assembled using a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag stitch. A twin needle or coverstitch can be used for finishing hems, and a 3- or 4-thread overlock is suitable for seam construction.

Assembly Instructions

1. Front and Pocket Bags

Attach the Pocket Bag pieces to the Front pieces.

Stitch the shaped seams of the Front, simultaneously finishing the pocket bag.

Press the seam allowances toward the center and overlock.

2. Shoulder and Side Seams

Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances toward the Back and overlock.

3. Hood

Attach the Hood pieces to the Center Hood, press seam allowances toward the center piece and overlock.

Install eyelets according to the markings.

Overlock the inner edge of the Hood Facing.

Place the Hood Facing and Hood right sides together and stitch along the outer edge.

Clip seam allowances at the curves and turn the facing to the wrong side.

Topstitch the Hood Facing onto the main piece, forming a casing.

4. Hood Attachment

Set the Hood into the neckline, press seam allowances toward the hood and overlock.

5. Zipper and Waistband

Overlock the front edges.

Overlock one long edge of the Waistband (marked on pattern as “Lower Placket”).

Attach the unoverlocked edge of the Waistband to the lower edge of the jacket, slightly stretching the waistband.

Insert the zipper.

Wrap the Waistband around the zipper and topstitch in the zipper seam.

Turn the waistband to the inside and topstitch in the seam of attachment of the upper edge of the waistband.

Topstitch the zipper tape onto the main piece.

6. Sleeve Seams

Stitch the sleeve seams, press seam allowances toward the back and overlock.

7. Sleeves

Set the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and overlock.

8. Cuffs

Stitch the Cuffs into a ring.

Fold the cuffs lengthwise, right side out, and press.

Attach the cuffs to the sleeves, easing the sleeve, overlock seam allowances.

9. Drawstring

Insert the drawstring into the hood casing.