Zip Front Hoodie with Kangaroo Pocket

Name: Zip Front Hoodie with Kangaroo Pocket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 6142
Price: 16.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #6142

A men's (unisex) hip-length zip-up hoodie for fleece or brushed sweatshirt knit, with a two-piece drawstring hood, set-in sleeves and two patch pockets that meet at the zip like a kangaroo pocket. No rib bands: the hems are turned up and topstitched. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fleece or soft, heavy knit (brushed-back sweatshirt fabric).

Tech. Description

Classic Zip-Up Hoodie

When To Wear

Over a T-shirt at home, for walks and for sport in cool weather.
Under a jacket or windbreaker as a warm middle layer.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, relaxed fit; one-piece back with no seams.

Length: Hip length, straight hem turned up 2 cm and topstitched.

Neckline: Hood of two pieces with a centre seam covered by folded bias tape; the front edge is turned into a casing for a drawcord threaded through two buttonholes. The hood seam at the neckline is also covered with bias tape.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves, sewn into the open armhole; the side and sleeve seams are stitched in one pass. Sleeve hems turned up 2 cm and topstitched.

Closure: Zip down the centre front, backed by front facings that are tacked to the shoulder seams.

Pockets: A patch pocket on each front with a slanted, turned-and-topstitched opening; the two pockets meet at the zip.

Finishing: Seams sewn with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch and overlocked; hems topstitched with a twin needle; fusible interfacing behind the hood buttonholes.

Level Of Difficulty

Beginner. Patch pockets, a zip and a hood seam bound with bias tape. Some experience with knits is useful.

Fabric Recommendations

Fleece or soft, heavy knit (brushed-back sweatshirt fabric).

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing
Zip (length marked on the front pattern piece)
Cord for the hood (approximate length marked on the hood pattern piece)
Cord ends
Bias tape, 4 cm wide

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeves – 2 cm. Outer edge allowance for the hood 2 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the facing – 0 cm. Pocket opening allowance – 2 cm. All other seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.

Reinforce the areas for buttonholes on the hood with fusible interfacing.
Serge the opening edge of each Patch Pocket, fold it inwards and topstitch. Serge the remaining edges of the pockets, fold the allowances to the wrong side and press. Mark the pocket placement on each Front and topstitch the pocket in place.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the hoodie. Press the seams towards the back and serge.
Insert the zipper starting from the top down to the zipper notch.
Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the Hood pieces right sides together. Lay the bias tape on the center seam edge and align the edges. Stitch the Hood pieces together through the bias tape. Fold back the bias tape and topstitch it onto the hood, thereby covering the seam of the hood pieces. Work the buttonholes for the cord. Serge the front edge of the hood, fold it to the wrong side and topstitch to form a casing. Cut open the buttonholes, thread the cord through the casing and add the cord ends.
Serge the outer and top edges of the Center Front Facing.
Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the hoodie and hood right sides together. Lay the Center Front Facing on the hood, right side down. Lay the bias tape along the neckline from the back (the tape should extend onto the front by 1.5 – 2 cm) and align the edges. Stitch the hood, hoodie, facing and bias tape together. Fold back the bias tape and topstitch it onto the hoodie, thereby covering the hood insertion seam.
Secure the top edge of the facing to the shoulder seam.
Sew the sleeves into the armholes flat (before closing the side seams). Serge the seam. Stitch the side seam and sleeve seam in one pass. Serge the seam and press towards the back.
Serge the bottom of the garment.
Fold the bottom hem allowance inwards and topstitch.
Serge the sleeve hem, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.