Asymmetrical Zipper Cowl Neck Sweatshirt
A men's hip-length sweatshirt for knit fabric with a diagonal zip set into a front panel seam, a high double-layer wrap collar, curved pockets with bound openings, and a band at the hem and cuffs.
When To Wear
- As a top over a T-shirt for everyday wear and weekends in spring and autumn.
- Under a light jacket in cold weather; the high collar covers the neck.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting body drawn in by the hem band.
Length: Hip length, ending in a band.
Collar: High double-layer collar that wraps across the front, topstitched 0.5 cm from the outer edge; the neck seam is covered with bias binding on the inside.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with folded cuffs.
Front: Divided by diagonal panel seams into centre fronts and side fronts. The zip is set into one panel seam, from the middle of the hem band up to the collar; the other panel seam is topstitched.
Pockets: Pockets on the side fronts with curved openings bound with a bias strip of the main fabric; the pocket lining is topstitched along the curve.
Back: Centre back seam, topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Seams serged and topstitched 0.5 cm; hem band stitched on slightly stretched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Setting an asymmetric zip into a knit panel seam and through the hem band, bound pocket openings and a double-layer collar on knit fabric.
Fabric Recommendations
French terry or fleece with medium stretch, in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Zip
- Bias binding to match the main fabric
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Right Front – 1 piece
- Center Left Front – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Lower Placket – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
Attention! The labels on the pattern pieces are written on the right side of the fabric.
Tip: Knit pieces should be sewn with a special stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
- Pockets. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric equal to the length of the pocket opening. Fold it in half lengthwise and press. Unfold, press both long edges to the center, then fold in half lengthwise again and press. Bind the pocket opening of the Side Front with this binding. Serge the rounded edge of the Pocket Lining. Place the Side Front onto the Pocket Lining and topstitch along the rounded line. Tack the Pocket Lining and the Side Front together along the lower edge, 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the center back seam. Serge the seam allowances, press them to the left side, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the princess seam on the left side of the front. Serge the seam allowance, press towards the side seam, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the side seams. Serge the seam allowances and press towards the back. Serge the outer edge of the Center Right Front. Fold the seam allowance inwards and topstitch.
- Stitch the upper edge of the Lower Placket to the lower edge of the sweatshirt, slightly stretching the placket. Serge the lower edge of the placket. Place the right half of the zipper onto the right princess seam edge, starting from the middle of the Lower Placket and ending at the zipper mark, with the teeth facing the side seam. Fold the lower part of the placket around the zipper end, place the Center Right Front on top of the zipper and stitch. Serge the seam allowance and press towards the side seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Place the left half of the zipper onto the outer edge of the left front, starting from the middle of the Lower Placket and ending at the zipper mark, with the teeth facing the side seam. Fold the lower part of the placket around the zipper end and stitch. Serge the seam allowance and press towards the side seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Fold the inner edge of the placket up and stitch it into the seam that joins the outer layer of the placket to the sweatshirt.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Serge the seam allowances, press towards the back, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Turn the collar right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer edge 0.5 cm from the edge. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the sweatshirt and the collar right sides together. Place the bias binding onto the collar edge and align the edges. Stitch the collar to the sweatshirt together with the bias binding. Fold the bias binding over and topstitch it onto the sweatshirt, covering the collar seam. Turn the ends of the bias binding inwards.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Serge the seam allowance and press towards the back of the sleeve. Fold the Cuff right sides together and stitch it into a ring. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and attach to the sleeve. Serge the seam allowance. Set in the sleeves, matching the notches. Serge the seam and press towards the front and back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
