CUTTER'S MUST
- From knit fabric:
- 1. Upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- 2. Lower BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- 3. SIDE PANEL of FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 3. Center FRONT PANEL – QTY 1
- 3. Lower FRONT PANEL – QTY 1
- 4. SLEEVE – QTY 2
- From chiffon:
- 1. COLLAR – QTY 1
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANELs. Serge the seam and press it upwards. Stitch the center seam of the BACK PANEL. Serge the seam and press it.
- Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL. Serge the seam and press it towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower FRONT PANELs, clipping the corner on the lower part. Serge the seam and press it upwards.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- Clip the COLLAR SEAM ALLOWANCES near the 'o' marks. Finish the 'tail' of the COLLAR with a French seam (also known as a 'Moscow' seam). To do this, press the allowance to the wrong side by 1.5 cm, stitch 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold. Trim the allowance close to the stitching. Fold the allowance again and stitch along the previous line. Press the seam. Fold the COLLAR in half lengthwise, right side out. Along the short unhemmed side, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather, reducing the COLLAR width by half. Attach the COLLAR to the neckline, starting the stitching at the lowest point of the front neckline and continuing to the left shoulder seam. In this section, attach the COLLAR only on one side, leaving the second finished side untouched. At the left shoulder seam, secure both sides of the COLLAR together and then attach both sides of the COLLAR into the back neckline and into the right part of the front neckline. Serge the seam and press it towards the armhole. Turn the dress inside out. Secure the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the gathered COLLAR side and the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the left front neckline together. Stitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Stitch the side seams of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
- Stitch the SLEEVE seams. Press and serge the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, matching the NOTCHES. Press and serge the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and the bottom edge of the SLEEVE. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.
- Drape the COLLAR and secure it with a brooch.
