Pleated Chiffon Yoke Blouse with Voluminous Sleeves

Name: Pleated Chiffon Yoke Blouse with Voluminous Sleeves
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5937
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5937

A women's hip-length top combining a knit body with a crinkle chiffon upper part: the yoke and sleeves are cut in one, with horizontal stitched pleats across the shoulders. Wide boat neckline; full sleeves gathered into an elastic casing at the hem. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric with medium to high stretch, made from natural or blended fibres, for the body; crinkle-effect chiffon for the upper part and sleeves.

Tech. Description

Pleated Chiffon Yoke Blouse with Voluminous Sleeves

When To Wear

With trousers or a pencil skirt for the office and dinners.
In spring and summer, or under a jacket in cooler weather.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, close-fitting knit body with full chiffon sleeves.

Length: Hip length.

Neckline: Wide boat neckline across the chiffon part; the 3.5 cm allowance is pressed to the wrong side and topstitched along the stitching line of the pleats.

Front: Lower part of knit fabric, cut on the fold; upper part of chiffon, cut in four pieces (yoke and sleeve in one), joined to the knit with a horizontal seam pressed upwards.

Sleeves: Full, cut in one with the yoke, with a seam along the top of the arm. Pleats are stitched only between two marked cross lines, folds facing down, so the sleeve opens out below them. The hem is turned under twice by 1 cm to form a casing for 0.7 cm elastic.

Back: Same construction as the front: knit lower part cut on the fold, pleated chiffon yoke.

Finishing: Underarm and side seams sewn in one pass and pressed towards the back; body hem turned under and topstitched with a twin needle or coverstitch.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Stitching evenly spaced pleats in crinkle chiffon, joining chiffon to knit fabric, clipping corners at the armhole and sewing knit with stretch stitches.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric with medium to high stretch, made from natural or blended fibres, for the body; crinkle-effect chiffon for the upper part and sleeves.

Additional Supplies

Chiffon (upper part and sleeves)
Elastic, 0.7 cm wide

Cutter's Must

From knit fabric: Lower Part – 2 pieces (cut on fold)
From chiffon: Upper Part – 4 pieces

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch the pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine. When serging with an overlock, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm.

Sewing Instructions

Mark the pleats on the Upper Part pieces. Fold the pleats along the markings and stitch them, with the pleat folds facing downwards. Stitch the pleats only within the area marked by the 2 cross lines. Press the pleats. Stitch the top edge of the Upper Part pieces from the sleeve hem to the circle mark. Clip the seam allowance at the corner, press the seam and serge. Serge the neckline seam allowance, press it to the wrong side and topstitch along the pleat stitching line.
Clip the seam allowance of the Upper Part at the corner near the armhole. Stitch the Upper Part to the Lower Part. Press the seam upwards. Stitch the lower armhole section of the Lower Part to the matching section of the sleeve. Press the seam towards the sleeve.
Stitch the sleeve seam, simultaneously stitching the side seam. Serge the seams and press them towards the back.
Serge the bottom edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press and topstitch. Press the sleeve hem edge twice by 1 cm and topstitch, leaving an opening for the elastic. Thread the elastic through the casing and secure it.