High Ruffle Collar Pintuck Front Button Blouse

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: Blouse fabric made from natural or blended fibers (cotton, viscose, polyester). YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 12 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Side back part - 2 pieces
  • Front yoke - 2 pieces
  • Front insert - 2 pieces
  • Side front part - 2 pieces
  • Center front part - 2 pieces
  • Left front placket – 1 piece
  • Right front placket – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand placket — 1 piece
  • Collar stand flap — 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Cuff placket - 4 pieces
  • Cuff flap – 4 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff placket - 2 pieces
  • Cuff flap – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand flap — 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
2. Place collar stand flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn flap right side out, shape, and press.
3. Overcast the top and side edges of the collar stand placket, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Create even pleats on the placket. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the placket (from notch to notch) and the flap between them, and stitch along the outer contour and side edges, simultaneously stitching the lower edge section up to the notch. Clip seam allowances near the notch. Turn the collar stand right side out, shape the seams, and press.
4. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and overcast.
5. On the insert pieces, create and stitch pleats. The pleat depths are directed towards the shoulder seam.
6. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Attach the yoke to the insert, press allowances towards the yoke and overcast. Attach the insert to the front, press allowances towards the front and overcast.
7. Right front: Fuse interfacing to the right placket from the edge to the “inner placket edge” line on the side of the buttonhole markings. Attach the right placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Press the placket inwards to the wrong side along the “front edge” and “concealed placket edge” lines. Topstitch the placket into the attachment seam. Fold the inner part of the placket towards the front edge, and press. Left front: Attach the left placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Turn the inner edge inwards by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam.
8. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer collar stand.
10. Cut a bias binding for the sleeve slit, 18*3 cm in cut. Mark the placket line on the sleeve, cut the sleeve along the line. Lay the sleeve along the cut line in a straight line and finish the slit with a bound seam with a closed edge. Binding width 0.5 – 0.7 cm. Seam width along the slit length 0.5 – 0.7 cm, at the top of the slit it decreases to 0.2 cm. Stitch and overcast sleeve edges. Stitch along the bottom of the sleeve with loosely tensioned stitches and gather.
11. Attach cuff plackets to the cuff, press allowances towards the placket. Fold cuffs in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short side and placket steps on one side, and the short side and top edge up to the notch on the other side. Clip allowances at the notch. Turn cuffs right side out and press.
12. Place cuff flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn flap right side out, shape, and press.
13. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, inserting the flap between them. Turn under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam.
14. Along the upper part of the sleeve cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set sleeves into armholes. Press seam and overcast.
15. Press the bottom of the garment to the wrong side twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
16. Overcast buttonholes on the right placket, collar stand, cuffs, and flaps. Sew on buttons accordingly.