Short Coat with Rounded Collar
A women's hip-length short coat with a large rounded collar on a stand, front yokes over gathered princess-seamed fronts, two welt pockets and a four-button closure, one of the buttons on the collar. Fully lined, with 0.7 cm topstitching along the seams and edges.
When To Wear
- In cool spring and autumn weather, over dresses, skirts or trousers.
- For everyday wear and town outings, with the collar buttoned up against the wind.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose, straight below the yokes.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Large rounded collar attached to a separate stand, under collar set into the coat neckline and upper collar into the facings; buttons with one buttonhole on the collar.
Front: Front yoke, with the front gathered into it around the princess seam. Princess seams pressed towards the centre and topstitched 0.7 cm from the seam.
Closure: Single-breasted, buttonholes on the right front; three buttons on the front and one on the collar.
Pockets: Welt pockets with rounded welts set into the fronts, ends of the welts topstitched down, pocket bags of lining fabric.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with pleats at the lower edge.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and a back yoke, all topstitched 0.7 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Front edges and collar topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining cut from the same pieces as the coat, less the facings; hem and sleeves finished with the lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Welt pockets, gathers set into yokes, a two-part collar on a stand, a bagged full lining turned through the sleeve.
Fabric Recommendations
Loosely woven coating fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing on a soft woven base (stand, collar, front facings, welts, back neck facing)
- 4 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Front center – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Stand – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Welt pocket flap – 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back center – 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Front center – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
Attention: The front yoke, front center, and back yoke lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, deducting the width of the front facings and the back neckline facing, respectively.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Stand – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the corresponding pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Fold the welt pocket flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the pocket opening edge and short sides. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Reinforce the pocket area on the front with a grain line strip and mark the attachment lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Attach the welt pocket flap to the front, straighten. Attach one pocket bag to the front, the other to the welt pocket flap in the attachment seam. Turn pocket bags to the wrong side. Secure pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Even, trim, stitch, and overlock the pocket bag. Topstitch the ends of the welt pocket flap to the front.
- Along the upper edge of the front in the area of the princess seam, sew a basting stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the front yoke to the front, press seam allowances towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Fold the front facing with the front right sides together and stitch the front edge and neckline up to the notch. Trim seam allowances at the corner, clip at the notch. Turn the front facing to the right side, straighten, and press.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Attach the back yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances open.
- Attach the stands to the collars, clip and press seam allowances open. Fold the collars right sides together and stitch the outer edge and stand up to the notch. Clip seam allowances at curves and at the notch, trim corners. Turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press. Secure the upper and lower collars along the stand attachment seam.
- Attach the back neckline facing to the front facings, press seam allowances open.
- Set the lower collar into the coat's neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the front facings and back neckline facing, clip seam allowances at curves, press open.
- Fold and secure pleats along the lower edge of the sleeve. Stitch the sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the right sleeve seam. Fold the lining with the coat right sides together and attach to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Secure the seam allowances of the collar attachment seams close to the seams. Stitch the lower corner of the front edge, trim corners. Mark and press the hem of the garment to the wrong side. Finish the hem of the garment and sleeves with the lining. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the technological opening closed. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.7 cm from the edge.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and correspondingly sew buttons on the left front. Make a buttonhole and sew a button on the collar.
