Peter Pan Collar Jacket
An unlined, hip-length women's jacket in denim-type fabric with a Peter Pan collar, rounded front and back yokes, front princess seams with welt pockets and small vents at the hem, and a deep inverted pleat at the centre back. Three-quarter sleeves with buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear
- Spring and early autumn, over T-shirts, shirts and dresses.
- Everyday wear with jeans, trousers or skirts.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Slightly flared from the yokes, with fullness at the back from the inverted pleat.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Peter Pan collar with rounded ends, in two layers; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar is topstitched over the seam.
Sleeves: Three-quarter set-in sleeves, one piece, with a topstitched slit at the seam and an interfaced cuff fastened with a button.
Front: Rounded front yoke over a centre front and side front joined by a princess seam that ends in a vent at the hem. The centre front panel is stacked over the side panel at the vent.
Closure: Interfaced button band cut in one with the front yoke and centre front, fastened with four buttons and buttonholes on the right front.
Pockets: Vertical welt pockets set into the front princess seams; the welt is folded, topstitched on three sides and its ends are stitched down to the side front.
Back: One-piece back with an inverted pleat at the centre, set into a one-piece rounded back yoke.
Finishing: Yoke seams, princess seams, front edges and collar topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge; 3 cm hem allowance overlocked and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets set into princess seams, seam vents, a cut-on button band with turned corners, a collar, and cuffs with a sleeve slit.
Fabric Recommendations
Firm fabrics of natural or mixed fibres, for example denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (button bands, collar, welts, cuffs)
- 6 buttons (4 for the front, 2 for the cuffs)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Front Yoke - 2 pieces
- Center Front - 2 pieces
- Side Front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Cut-on button bands of the Front Yoke and Center Front.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the cut-on button bands of the front yoke and center front, the collar, the welts and the cuffs.
- Place the upper collar on the under collar, right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar, starting and ending exactly at the marked neckline seam line. Trim the seam allowances, turn out, roll the seam and press the collar.
- Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short ends. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the welt right side out and press. Topstitch along the short ends and one long edge. Stitch one of the pocket linings to the welt.
- Place a pocket lining on the right side of the side front, and the pocket lining with the attached welt on the center front, right sides down, matching the notches. Stitch the pocket linings to the pocket opening allowances. Overlock the princess seam edges of the front together with the vent allowances.
- Stitch the front princess seams together with the pocket linings down to the vent. Press the seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the pocket linings together and overlock. Topstitch along the princess seam on the right side 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the short ends of the welt down onto the side front.
- Fold the vent allowance of the side front in half and press. Lay the vents so that the center front vent is on top, and stitch across the top of the vent to secure it.
- Fold the inverted pleat on the back. Stitch the back yoke to the back, press the seam allowances towards the yoke and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the front yoke to the front, press the seam allowances towards the yoke and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Overlock the edge of the cut-on button band, fold the band to the right side of the front, and stitch the upper corner from the fold to the center front line and the lower corner exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the corners. Turn the band right side out, press, and topstitch it to the front, catching the inner edge of the pocket lining.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances open and overlock.
- Stitch the under collar to the jacket neckline. Turn under the seam allowance of the upper collar and topstitch it over the under collar seam.
- Fold the cuffs right sides together and stitch the short ends and the extension end.
- Overlock the sleeve seam edges, stitch the sleeve seam up to the slit mark and press it open, pressing the slit allowances too. Topstitch along the edges of the slit. Stitch the outer half of the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Turn under the edge of the inner half of the cuff by 1 cm and topstitch it over the cuff seam. Topstitch around the cuff.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes and press the seam allowances.
- Overlock the lower edge of the jacket. Stitch the lower corners of the vents exactly along the marked hemline. Turn up the 3 cm hem allowance and topstitch along the overlocked edge.
- Topstitch 0.2 cm from the edge along the front edges and the collar.
- Work buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons onto the left front. Work buttonholes and sew buttons on the cuffs.
