Fitted V-Neck Dress with Side Ruching
A women's fitted dress above the knee with elbow-length set-in sleeves, a raised waist seam and curved side panels front and back that are gathered below the waist. The bodice front is two overlapping pieces forming a small V at the centre of a round neckline, shaped by stitched-down tucks; the bodice is lined.
When To Wear
- Office days with a jacket or cardigan.
- Daytime events, lunches and dinners in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, with a seam under the bust and curved panel seams running from the armhole down the front and back.
Length: Above the knee.
Neckline: Round, with the right upper front lapped over the left to form a small V at the centre. Each upper front has dart tucks folded towards the armhole, stitched 3 cm from the point and released towards the neckline; the neckline and wrap edges are faced with the lining.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves ending at the elbow, with a 3 cm hem.
Waist: Horizontal seam under the bust joining the upper and lower front, and the upper and lower back.
Skirt: Lower front in one piece and two-piece lower back, each with curved side panels gathered between notches where they join the centre panels.
Back: Darts on the upper back, centre back seam with an invisible zip from the neckline down to a notch, and a centre back vent at the hem, interfaced and machine-stitched in place.
Finishing: Dress and sleeve hems pressed up 3 cm, turned under 1 cm and topstitched.
Lining: Upper front and upper back are lined; the lining is sewn to the zip tape and to the waist seam of the back.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A wrapped, lined bodice with released dart tucks, gathered side panels matched at notches, a centre back vent and an invisible zip finished together with the lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Firm silk dress fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Invisible zip
- Fusible interfacing (back vent)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 1 piece
- Lower Side Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the darts on the main fabric Upper Back pieces. Press the darts towards the center back. Attach the Upper Side Back pieces to the Upper Back. Press the seams towards the center back and overlock.
- On each Lower Side Back, between the notches, sew a line of loose-tension stitches and draw up the gathers. Attach the Lower Side Back to the Lower Back, matching the notches. Press the seam towards the center back and overlock. Attach the lower back to the upper back, press the seam allowances downwards and overlock.
- On the left Lower Back, trim 5 cm off along the vertical edge of the vent. Interface the vent on both Lower Back pieces from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center back line (vent fold line). Press the left piece along the vent fold line; on the right piece, press only the right-hand vent allowance (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center back line and secure them at the upper edge of the vent. Overlock the center back edge of each piece separately, overlocking the vent edges at the same time. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper notch to the top of the vent. Clip the corner of the vent allowance on the right piece. Press the center back seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the invisible zipper from the upper edge to the notch.
- On the main fabric Upper Front pieces, fold and press the darts, with the dart folds directed towards the armhole. Stitch the darts from the point for 3 cm. On the wrong side, stitch along the inner fold of each dart 0.5 cm from the fold. Secure the darts at the neckline edge. Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seams towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the darts on the lining Upper Back and Upper Front. Press the darts: on the back – towards the center back, on the front – towards the armhole. Stitch the lining shoulder seams. Press the seams towards the back. Overlock the center and lower edges of the back lining.
- Place the dress and the lining right sides together, matching the neckline edges. Stopping 5 mm short of the zipper edges, fold the lining back and pin it to the upper edge of the dress. Fold the seam allowances along the zipper towards the right side of the dress and pin them to the neckline over the lining. Stitch the neckline and the front wrap edges. Clip the seam allowances on the curves, turn right side out and press. Fold the seam allowances along the zipper to the wrong side. Attach the back lining to the zipper tape and to the seam joining the upper and lower back. Press. From here on, treat the Upper Front and its lining as one layer.
- Attach the Upper Side Front pieces to the Upper Front pieces. Press the seams towards the center front and overlock. On each Lower Side Front, between the notches, sew a line of loose-tension stitches and draw up the gathers. Attach the Lower Side Front to the Lower Front, matching the notches. Press the seams towards the center front and overlock.
- Lap the right upper front over the left and attach them to the lower front, matching the notches. Press the seam downwards and overlock.
- Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the sleeve seams. Press and overlock. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Press and overlock the seams.
- Press the hem allowances of the dress and sleeves to the wrong side, turn under another 1 cm and topstitch.
