Ruched Bust and Shoulders Dress

Name: Ruched Bust and Shoulders Dress
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5849
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5849

A fitted women's sheath dress ending above the knee, with a pleated upper front set into a curved seam under the bust, short gathered cap sleeves and a gathered inset at the lower centre back. The upper front and upper back are lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Ruched Bust and Shoulders Dress

When To Wear

Spring and summer daytime events and parties.
Evening dinners and receptions, with a light jacket or wrap over the shoulders.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted sheath, shaped by curved panel seams on the front and back and by waist darts on the back.

Length: Above the knee; 3 cm hem allowance, turned under and topstitched.

Neckline: Wide scoop neckline at the front and a rounded neckline at the back, both finished with the lining.

Sleeves: Short cap sleeves cut as a strip folded in half lengthwise, gathered along the raw edges and caught between the dress and the lining at the shoulders.

Front: One-piece upper front with folded pleats stitched into a curved seam under the bust; the lower front is a centre panel with two side panels joined by curved seams.

Back: Upper back and centre lower back joined by a horizontal seam below the shoulder blades, both with waist darts; curved seams to the side back panels; a gathered inset at the hem below the centre back seam.

Closure: Invisible zip in the centre back seam, from the neckline down to a notch.

Lining: Upper front and upper back lined; the lining finishes the neckline and armholes and its lower edges are stitched into the seam between the upper and lower parts of the dress.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleats set into a curved seam, a gathered inset, sleeves sandwiched between dress and lining while the neckline and armholes are faced, and an invisible zip with the lining attached to the zip tape.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Invisible zip

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
Upper Back – 2 pieces
Center Lower Back – 2 pieces
Lower Side Back – 2 pieces
Back Inset – 1 piece
Upper Front – 1 piece
Center Lower Front Part – 1 piece
Side Lower Front – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
Upper Back – 2 pieces
Upper Front – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Stitch the waist darts on the Upper Back and Center Lower Back pieces. Press the darts towards the center of the piece.
Stitch the Center Lower Back to the Upper Back, press the seam allowances upwards and serge.
Serge the center back edges. Insert the invisible zipper from the upper edge to the notch. Fold the lower end of the zipper aside and stitch the center back seam from the notch downwards. Press the seam allowances open.
Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the upper edge of the Back Inset and gather. Stitch the inset to the back, press the seam allowances upwards and serge. Stitch on the Lower Side Back, press the seam allowances towards the center and serge.
Stitch the Side Lower Front to the Center Lower Front Part, press the seam allowances towards the center and serge.
Fold the pleats on the Upper Front and stitch it to the lower front. Press the seam allowances upwards and serge.
Fold the Sleeve in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitch the long side, turn right side out and press. Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the raw edges and gather.
Assemble the lining pieces in the same way as the main fabric pieces; serge the lower edges and the center back edges. Place the lining on the dress, right sides together, inserting the sleeves between them, and stitch the neckline and armhole edges; press the seam allowances and clip them on the curves. Turn right side out. Stitch the center back seam allowance of the lining to the zipper tape. Topstitch the lower edges of the lining into the seam joining the upper and lower parts of the dress.
Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
Press the hem allowance to the wrong side, fold under 1 cm and topstitch.