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#5844
#5846

Mock Neck Short Sleeve Ruched Dress

Pattern #5845

A women's fitted dress for knit fabric, ending above the knee, with a high folded stand-up collar, short gathered sleeves and ruching at the front: gathered side seams at the waist and a drawstring casing that ruches the skirt beside a hanging strip insert. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit jersey with low to medium stretch, in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Mock Neck Short Sleeve Ruched Dress

A women's fitted dress for knit fabric, ending above the knee, with a high folded stand-up collar, short gathered sleeves and ruching at the front: gathered side seams at the waist and a drawstring casing that ruches the skirt beside a hanging strip insert.

When To Wear

  • Autumn and spring, on its own or under a coat.
  • Evening outings and parties, with tights and boots or heeled shoes.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, straight dress in stretch knit.

Length: Above the knee; hem overlocked, turned up 1.5 cm and topstitched.

Collar: High stand-up collar sewn into a ring, folded in half and attached to the neckline, with its seam at the left shoulder.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves, gathered at the cap and at the hem; each sleeve is lined with self fabric and drawn in with elastic thread stitched along the lower edge.

Front: One piece, gathered along the side edges between marks at the waist. The skirt has a vertical slit: one side is gathered to 15 cm and joined to a strip insert that hangs loose below the hem; below the insert the slit is closed with a seam topstitched 0.7 cm each side to form a casing for a knit drawstring that ruches the front.

Back: Two pieces with a centre back seam; no closure.

Finishing: Seams sewn with a stretch stitch or on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker; hems topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A cut slit with a folded insert set into a horizontal opening, a drawstring casing, lined gathered sleeves with elastic thread, and sewing stretch knit.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit jersey with low to medium stretch, in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

  • Elastic thread

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 1 piece
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Insert – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
  • Drawstring: a knit strip 1 – 1.5 cm wide (cut to measure)

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics should be sewn with a special elastic stitch or directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity.

Sewing Instructions

  1. On the Insert, clip the seam allowance near the mark. Overlock, fold under and topstitch the edge from the mark to the bottom, the bottom edge and the second long edge of the Insert.
  2. On the Front, cut through the slit seam allowance and cut a 3 cm wide slit along the horizontal mark. Along the right side of the slit, from the horizontal mark to the notch, sew a line of long, loose stitches and gather to 15 cm. Fold the right and left sides of the slit right sides together, place the Insert between them, and stitch on an overlocker from the horizontal mark to the notch. Press the seam towards the left side seam.
  3. On the right side of the Front, turn the Insert towards the right side seam. 1.5 cm from the seam along the upper edge of the Insert, fold it back towards the left side seam. Place the upper edge of the Insert between the edges of the horizontal slit on the Front. Stitch the horizontal slit on an overlocker.
  4. Fold the slit edges from the Insert seam down to the hemline right sides together and stitch with a straight stitch, keeping the Insert folded up out of the way. Press the seam open, overlock and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam on each side to form a casing. Cut a knit strip 1 – 1.5 cm wide for the drawstring. Thread the drawstring through the casing from top to bottom and then up again, pull to the desired length. Secure the ends of the drawstring, trim excess.
  5. Along the side edges of the Front between the marks, sew a line of long, loose stitches and gather.
  6. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam.
  7. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the back and front. Press the seams towards the back.
  8. Stitch the sleeve seams of the Sleeve and Sleeve Lining pieces. Press the seams. Along the lower edge of the Sleeve, sew a line of long, loose stitches and gather. Place the Sleeve Lining into the Sleeve right sides together and stitch the pieces along the bottom edge. Press the seam towards the lining. Along the lining attachment seam between the marks, sew a row with elastic thread, placing the elastic on the wrong side. Turn the pieces right side out, align at the sleeve cap, and secure with a stitch. Then treat the sleeve as a single-layer piece. Between the notches on the sleeve cap (the upper notch is on the front side), sew a line of long, loose stitches and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press the seam towards the back and front.
  9. Stitch the collar into a ring. Turn the collar right side out and press. Fold the collar in half, wrong side in. Attach the collar to the neckline, aligning the notches. The collar seam is located at the left shoulder seam. Press the collar attachment seam.
  10. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.

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Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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