Princess Seam Blouse with Puffed Sleeves
A fitted women's short-sleeved blouse with princess seams at the front and back, a pointed shirt collar on a stand, a five-button front placket and short sleeves pleated at the cap and finished with folded cuffs.
When To Wear
- Office wear with pencil skirts, trousers or under a suit jacket.
- Spring and summer, tucked in or worn loose over trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams and darts at the front and back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem overlocked, turned up 1.5 cm and topstitched.
Collar: Shirt collar with pointed ends set into a separate interfaced stand; the inner stand is topstitched in the ditch.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with pleats at the cap folded towards the centre of the sleeve; the hem is finished with a cuff folded in half and sewn into a ring.
Front: Princess seams with additional darts on the side fronts, pressed towards the side seam and topstitched. Interfaced plackets sewn on along the front edges; five buttons, buttonholes on the right front.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar on a stand, sewn-on front plackets, princess seams and pleated sleeve caps.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics from natural or blended fibres: silk, viscose, blends.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, upper collar, collar stands)
- 5 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Plackets, the upper Collar, and both Stand Collar pieces.
- Place the upper Collar and under Collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seam allowances. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the darts on the Side Front pieces. Press the darts towards the side seam and topstitch. Stitch the princess seams joining the Front and Side Front. Press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock.
- Fold each Placket in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Unfold the placket, place it right sides together with the front, and attach the outer side of the placket to the front. Press the seam towards the placket. Turn the inner side of the placket inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center back. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back. Press the seam allowances towards the center seam and overlock. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam to the left side and overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Sew the outer stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner stand, and topstitch it in the ditch of the attaching seam.
- Stitch, press, and overlock the sleeve seams. Fold the Cuffs in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Unfold the Cuffs and stitch each into a ring, placing the pieces right sides together. Press and overlock the seam. Fold the cuffs along the fold line and attach to the lower edge of the sleeve. Overlock the seam and press upwards. Form and secure the pleats on the sleeve cap according to the markings. The inner depths of the pleats are directed towards the center of the sleeve. Set in the sleeves. Press the seam towards the armhole and overlock.
- Overlock the hem of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front.
