CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Front SLEEVE part – QTY 2
- Back SLEEVE part – QTY 2
- Large pocket bag – QTY 2
- Small pocket bag – QTY 2
- Welt – QTY 2
- Front hood part – QTY 1
- Back hood part – QTY 2
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch the pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the welt with FUSIBLE INTERFACING, fold it in half lengthwise with the right side out, and press. Fuse the pocket area with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Mark a longitudinal line on the welt, defining the finished width of the welt. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Place the welt with the pocket bag on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, face down, aligning the pocket marking line and the line on the welt. Stitch the welt. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts to the corners of the pocket marking. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners.
- Stitch the center back seam of the BACK PANEL. Serge and press the seam open. Serge the bottom edge of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. On the FRONT PANEL pieces, fold up the bottom edge and topstitch with a twin needle, stopping 15-20 cm before the side seam.
- Overlap the right FRONT PANEL over the left and secure the pieces together. Then treat as one piece.
- Stitch the front SLEEVE part to the FRONT PANEL, make a NOTCH near the mark, serge and press towards the FRONT PANEL. Stitch the back SLEEVE part to the BACK PANEL, make a NOTCH near the mark, serge and press towards the BACK PANEL.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Serge and press the seams towards the BACK PANEL.
- Stitch the side seams of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, simultaneously stitching the SLEEVE seams. Serge and press the seams towards the BACK PANEL.
- Stitch the back hood parts to the front. Serge and press the seams towards the front part. Stitch the center seam of the hood. Serge and press the seam. Cut a BIAS BINDING equal to the hood neckline + 2 cm. Stitch the BIAS BINDING into a loop, fold it in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the strip on the raw edge of the hood from the right side and stitch, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Set the hood into the neckline. Serge and press the seam.
- Serge the bottom edge of the SLEEVE. Fold to the wrong side, press and topstitch. Fold up the bottom edge of the BACK PANEL. Topstitch the bottom hem with a twin needle. Press the seam.
