Fitted Collared Blouse Three-Quarter Tie Cuffs
A women's fitted blouse with princess seams and topstitched darts on the front and back, a shirt collar on a stand worn open at a V-neck, a four-button front and three-quarter sleeves finished with cuffs that tie in a knot.
When To Wear
- For the office with tailored trousers or a skirt.
- In spring and summer as a day shirt with jeans or chinos.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams from the armholes on the front and back plus vertical darts; all seams and darts topstitched.
Length: Hip length, straight hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.
Collar: Shirt collar set between two stand pieces; upper collar and inner stand interfaced, stand and collar topstitched. The front edges fold back below the stand to form an open V-neck.
Closure: Four buttons at the centre front, buttonholes on the right front; interfaced front facings, topstitched along the front edge.
Sleeves: Three-quarter set-in sleeves with an eased cap and a slit bound with a 19 × 3 cm bias strip (0.7 cm finished). The cuffs, interfaced between the notches, extend into ties knotted on the outer arm.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts, all topstitched.
Finishing: Princess seams pressed towards the side seams; shoulder and side seams pressed towards the back; all seams overlocked.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A two-piece collar on a stand, bound sleeve slits, princess seams with darts and even topstitching throughout.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabric of natural or blended fibres: cotton, viscose, blends.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, cuffs, upper collar, inner stand)
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Bias strip for the sleeve slits, 19 × 3 cm – 2 pieces (cut by measurement)
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, to the Cuffs between the notches, to the upper Collar and to the inner Stand Collar.
- Place the upper and under Collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seam allowances. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, match the notches and stitch, stitching the ends of the stand at the same time. Start and finish the stitching exactly at the marked line of the stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the darts on the Front and Side Front. Press the darts on the Front towards the centre front and on the Side Front towards the side seam. Topstitch the darts. Stitch the princess seams on the front. Overlock the seams, press towards the side seam and topstitch.
- Stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the centre back seam. Stitch the princess seams on the back. Overlock the seams, press towards the side seam and topstitch. Stitch the centre back seam. Press the seam to the left side, overlock and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Overlock the seams and press towards the back. Overlock the outer edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Turn the facing to the wrong side, press and topstitch. Tack the facing to the shoulder seam and baste the open neckline edges together. Stitch the side seams. Overlock the seams and press towards the back.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner Stand Collar and stitch it in place along the attachment seam of the outer stand. Topstitch the stand and the collar.
- Cut a bias strip 19 × 3 cm for each sleeve slit. Finish the slit as follows: spread the sleeve so the slit lies in one straight line and bind the slit with the bias strip. Finished binding width – 0.7 cm.
- Stitch and overlock the sleeve seams. Place each Cuff right sides together and stitch around the edge, leaving the upper edge between the notches open. Clip the seam allowances at the marks. Turn the cuffs right side out and press. Stitch the cuffs to the sleeves. Topstitch the cuffs around the edge. Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve cap.
- Overlock the hem of the blouse, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Work buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front.
