Reversible Cape Jacket

Name: Reversible Cape Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5723
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5723

A women's short reversible cape jacket made of two complete layers, suiting fabric on one side and leather on the other, with notched lapels, a double-breasted four-button front and wide cape panels in place of sleeves. All edges carry a double row of topstitching. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres for one side; natural or faux leather for the other.

Tech. Description

Reversible Cape Jacket

When To Wear

In spring and autumn over shirts, fine knitwear and dresses.
Worn fabric side out with tailored trousers, or leather side out with jeans.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Wide circular cape shape built from a front and back joined to front and back sleeve panels by vertical seams.

Length: Short, ending around the hip; curved hem.

Collar: Notched lapels with a turn-down collar; one collar piece in suiting fabric, the other in leather, each set into the neckline of the opposite layer.

Front: Double-breasted with four buttons in two pairs. Buttonholes and buttons on the right front, buttons on the left front, so the cape fastens on either side.

Back: Centre back seam and vertical seams joining the back sleeve panels.

Finishing: On the leather layer the seam allowances are spread open and topstitched on both sides of each seam; on the fabric layer they are pressed open. The two layers are joined along the front edges, lapels and hem, then stitched in the ditch of the neckline seam. Front edges, lapels, hem and collar are topstitched twice, 0.2 cm and 1 cm from the edge.

Lining: None: each layer finishes the other.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Sewing leather with topstitched open seams, joining two complete outer layers with a collar set between them, and even double topstitching through leather and suiting.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres for one side; natural or faux leather for the other.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (collar and fronts of the suiting fabric layer)
4 buttons

Cutter's Must

From suiting fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Front – 2 pieces
Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Collar – 1 piece

From leather:

Back – 2 pieces
Front – 2 pieces
Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Collar – 1 piece

From fusible interfacing: Collar and Front pieces (suiting fabric layer only).

Sewing Instructions

Fuse the collar and front pieces from suiting fabric with fusible interfacing.
Place the two collar pieces (suiting fabric and leather) right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge, starting and ending the seam strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the collar right side out, and press.
Leather layer. Stitch the center back seam. Spread the seam allowances to both sides and topstitch them. Attach the back sleeve to the back. Spread the allowances to both sides and topstitch. Attach the front sleeve to the front. Spread the allowances to both sides and topstitch. Stitch the shoulder seams. Spread the allowances to both sides and topstitch.
Suiting fabric layer. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam allowances open. Attach the back sleeve to the back. Press the allowances open. Attach the front sleeve to the front. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open.
Place the leather cape and the fabric cape right sides together and stitch the front edge and lapel up to the collar attachment mark. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim corners.
Insert the collar between the capes. Attach the suiting fabric collar piece to the neckline of the leather cape, and the leather collar piece to the neckline of the suiting fabric cape. Clip seam allowances at curves and press open.
Stitch the two layers together along the hem, leaving an opening for turning. Turn the cape right side out, baste and press. Stitch in the ditch of the neckline seam to join the layers.
Apply a double topstitch along the front edge, lapel, bottom edge of the garment, and along the ends and outer edge of the collar at 0.2 and 1.0 cm from the edge, closing the turning opening at the same time.
On the right front, make buttonholes and sew on buttons; on the left front, sew on buttons.