Cape with Ruffle Hem

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Front Yoke – 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
4. Back Yoke – 1 QTY
5. Back Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
6. Back Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
7. Front Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
8. Front Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
9. COLLAR – 2 QTY
10. Collar Stand – 2 QTY
11. Front Facing – 2 QTY
12. Back Neck FACING – 1 QTY
13. FLOUNCE – 1 QTY (detail dimensions are indicated on the back pattern piece)
• From LINING:
1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Back SLEEVE – 2 QTY
4. Front SLEEVE – 2 QTY
5. Fly Front Placket LINING – 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. Back Neck FACING – 1 QTY
2. Front Facing – 2 QTY
3. COLLAR – 1 QTY
4. Collar Stand – 1 QTY
5. Fly Front Placket LINING – 1 QTY

ATTENTION: - The FLOUNCE size is indicated on the back pattern piece. The FLOUNCE can be assembled from several parts. - Before cutting the LINING, join the paper pattern pieces of the upper and lower parts. The FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL LINING pieces are cut without considering the width of the front facings and the back neck FACING, respectively. The LINING should reach the FLOUNCE attachment line.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the COLLAR, collar stand, front facings, back neck FACING, and fly front placket LINING.
2. Stitch the bust dart on the FRONT PANEL pieces. Press darts towards the center.
3. Press folds along the marked line on the yokes and upper SLEEVE pieces.
4. Fold the back yoke with the BACK PANEL, right sides together, and stitch. Overcast and press the seam. Turn the yoke upwards, forming a fold. Topstitch along the marked line, securing the yoke to the main piece. Similarly, stitch the upper and lower parts of the FRONT PANEL and SLEEVE. Press the pieces.
5. Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL, leaving the section between the NOTCHES unstitched. Press seams open. Stitch the princess seams of the BACK PANEL. Press seams open.
6. Mark the placket opening with three lines on the right front facing's right side: the first line is parallel to the front edge and 1.5 cm from the finished front edge; the second and third lines define the placket length. Place the interfaced FACING on the right side of the front facing, right side down, from the front edge, aligning the FACING edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the placket opening up to the lines defining the placket length. Place the second placket FACING butt-to-butt with the stitching of the first FACING and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the placket opening. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced FACING equal to the width between the stitches. Topstitch in the FACING attachment seam. Press the second FACING towards the inner edge of the front facing and topstitch 0.1 cm from the FACING attachment seam. Mark and overcast buttonholes. Buttonholes are overcast on the front facing together with the interfaced FACING. Straighten and secure the ends of the placket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the FACING edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack equal to the frame width. Press the front facing.
7. Place the front facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side from the hemline to the NOTCH that defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Trim the seams of the upper front corners. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
8. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open.
9. Fold COLLAR pieces right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the COLLAR, inserting a hook and loop into the seam. Trim the seam. Turn the COLLAR out and press. Fold collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished COLLAR between them, align NOTCHES, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Turn the collar stand out and press.
10. Stitch shoulder seams of the back neck FACING and front facing. Press seams open.
11. Fold the FACING with the garment, right sides together, and, inserting the COLLAR between them, stitch the neckline. Turn the front facings and FACING to the wrong side and press.
12. Stitch the FLOUNCE parts into one piece. Overcast the bottom edge, fold up 2 cm and topstitch. Overcast the side edges of the FLOUNCE, fold up 1 cm and topstitch. Along the top edge, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the FLOUNCE to the bottom edge of the cape, first folding back the front facing (the front facing is not included in the seam).
13. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening for turning in the left shoulder seam. Fold the LINING with the cape, right sides together, and attach to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neck FACING. Attach the LINING to the FRONT PANEL openings. Fold the LINING with the cape right sides together and attach n