Fitted Panelled Denim Skirt
A women's knee-length denim skirt on a shaped yoke, with curved panel seams on the front and back, all topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam. A jeans-style fly zip at the centre front, an overlapping front yoke with a decorative clasp, and a front hem that rises in a curve at the centre.
When To Wear
- With T-shirts, shirts and knit tops.
- In spring and autumn with a jacket and boots.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the yoke and hips, flaring slightly to the hem.
Length: To about the knee; the front hem curves up at the centre front, the back hem is straight.
Skirt: Each half of the front and back is assembled from four panels: centre, middle, side and an insert, joined with curved seams. Every seam is overlocked, pressed to one side and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Waist: No waistband. A shaped yoke sits at the waist, cut double (outer and inner yoke) and interfaced. The left front yoke extends past the centre front over the right one and is fastened with a decorative clasp.
Closure: Fly-front zip at the centre front, with cut-on fly facings, a separate fly shield and a curved topstitched fly line.
Back: Centre back seam, topstitched; darts on the centre back panels below the yoke.
Finishing: Side seams pressed towards the back and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; inner yoke edgestitched 0.2 cm from the top seam; hem turned up twice and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A jeans fly zip with a fly shield, four curved panels in each half of the front and back with even topstitching, and a double yoke with an overlapping front end.
Fabric Recommendations
Firm cotton fabrics, denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (yokes, fly shield)
- Zip for the fly front
- Decorative clasp
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back - 2 pieces
- 2. Back insert - 2 pieces
- 3. Middle back - 2 pieces
- 4. Side back - 2 pieces
- 5. Back Yoke - 2 pieces
- 6. Center front - 2 pieces
- 7. Front insert - 2 pieces
- 8. Middle front - 2 pieces
- 9. Side front - 2 pieces
- 10. Left Front Yoke - 2 pieces
- 11. Right Front Yoke - 2 pieces
- 12. Front facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, front and back yokes.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the skirt yokes.
- Stitch darts on the center back panels. Press darts towards the center.
- Assemble the back: attach the insert to the middle skirt section. Overlock the seam, press towards the middle section, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the side section to the middle skirt section. Overlock the seam, press towards the middle section, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the middle and center skirt sections. Overlock the seam, press towards the center section, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the back center seam of the skirt. Press the seam to the left side, overlock, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the yoke to the back skirt. Press the seam towards the yoke.
- Assemble the front: attach the insert to the middle skirt section. Overlock the seam, press towards the middle section, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the side section to the middle skirt section. Overlock the seam, press towards the middle section, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the middle and center skirt sections. Overlock the seam, press towards the center section, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Overlock the center edge of the front together with the integrated facings. Stitch the center seam of the front up to the zipper insertion point.
- Press the integrated zipper facings to the wrong side: on the right – along the center front line, on the left – stopping 5 mm before the center front line. Attach the zipper under the edge of the zipper allowance (left side) to the edge, positioning the teeth close to the fold. Lay out the front, smooth the zipper edge. Align the center front lines and baste. Topstitch the free zipper tape to the right half to the integrated facing, without catching the front. Topstitch the right front along the zipper according to the marking, stopping 3 cm before the bottom end of the zipper. Fold the front facing in half, right side out, and overlock one short and one long edge. Place the front facing under the edge of the zipper allowance on the left side and topstitch the facing to the front facing close to the zipper attachment seam. Close the zipper and extend the topstitch with a curve at the end of the zipper, catching the front facing. Topstitch along the front center seam at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Attach the yokes to the front skirt panels. Press the seams towards the yokes.
- Stitch the side seams of the skirt. Press the seams towards the back, overlock, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner yokes. Press the seams open. Overlock the outer edge of the yoke. Place the yoke right sides together with the skirt and stitch the upper edge. Topstitch the facing allowance to the inner yoke at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seam, stopping 3 cm from each end. Stitch the ends of the yokes, trim excess fabric, and turn out the corners. Topstitch the inner yokes into the seam of the upper yokes and press.
- Press the hem allowance of the skirt to the wrong side, fold, and topstitch.
