Straight Skirt with Yoke and Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Central BACK SKIRT HALF – 1 QTY
• 2. Side BACK SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
• 3. Lower central BACK SKIRT HALF – 1 QTY
• 4. Lower side BACK SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
• 5. Back yoke – 2 QTY
• 6. Central FRONT SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
• 7. Side FRONT SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
• 8. Lower FRONT SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
• 9. Pocket bag – 2 QTY
• 10. Front yoke – 2 QTY
• 11. Inner yoke – 2 QTY
• 12. Fly facing - 1 QTY
• 13. Belt loop - 1 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: back yoke, front yoke, inner yoke, fly facing.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the back, front, and inner yokes, fly facing, and the integrated placket allowance on the FRONT PANEL.
2. Cut the belt loop piece according to size. Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise, right sides together, align the edges, and stitch along the long and one short side. Turn right side out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold, and press. Stitch a double topstitch around the perimeter at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Create a buttonhole at the end of the belt loop.
3. Place the pocket bag on the central FRONT PANEL and stitch the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side and stitch a double topstitch along the pocket opening at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge. Place the central part on the side FRONT PANEL according to the markings. Stitch and overcast the pocket LINING. Secure the pocket at the side and upper edges.
4. Attach the front yoke to the FRONT SKIRT HALF. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the yoke and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam, stopping 3 – 4 cm before the side edge.
5. Attach the lower FRONT SKIRT HALF to the central part. Press the seam towards the central part and overcast.
6. Attach the side BACK SKIRT HALF to the central part. Press the seam towards the central panel and overcast. Stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
7. Attach the yoke to the BACK SKIRT HALF. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the yoke.
8. Overcast the vent allowance on the lower side BACK SKIRT HALF and press 1 cm to the wrong side. Overcast the vent allowance on the lower central BACK SKIRT HALF. Press the vent to the wrong side, place it on the lower side part, and secure it along the upper edge.
9. Attach the lower part to the BACK SKIRT HALF, press the allowance upwards, and overcast.
10. Trim the integrated placket allowance on the left FRONT SKIRT HALF, leaving 2 cm. Overcast the center edges of the FRONT SKIRT HALVES. Stitch the center edge of the FRONT SKIRT HALF from the ZIPPER mark downwards, clip the allowance at the mark. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the right side, overcast, and stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
11. Stitch the side edges of the skirt, press open, and overcast. Stitch a double topstitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam attaching the yokes and lower parts to the back and FRONT SKIRT HALVES.
12. Press the integrated placket allowance on the right panel to the wrong side along the center front line, and on the left panel, 1 cm from the edge. Overcast the raw edges of the fly facing and press it in half lengthwise, right side out. Attach the ZIPPER under the edge of the placket allowance on the left side, close to the edge, positioning the teeth close to the fold and placing the unfolded fly facing with the marked fold towards the center so that the overcast edge covers the ZIPPER tape. Place hooks from the fastener on the integrated placket of the right side. Pin the opening, aligning the center front lines. Attach the free ZIPPER tape to the FACING of the right side of the fastener, without catching the fabric of the FRONT PANEL. On the fly facing, place buttonholes corresponding to the hooks.
13. Stitch and press open the side edges of the back and inner yokes. Overcast the outer edge. Fold the FACING with the upper edge of the skirt, right sides together. Turn the fly facing and the integrated placket allowance to the right side and attach the short sides of the FACING to them. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the FACING. Stitch the upper edge simultaneously with the upper corners of the fly facing and the integrated placket allowance, inserting the belt loops according to the markings. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the FACING right side out, and press. Topstitch the lengthwise allowance of the inner side of the fly facing into the attachment seam. Stitch a double topstitch along the right edge of the fastener at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Topstitch the lengthwise allowance of the integrated fastener into the attachment seam, without catching the fly facing. Finish the stitching 2 – 2.5 cm before the center seam. Then, fold the fly facing back into place and continue stitching to the seam. Stitch a double topstitch along the upper edge at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Topstitch the overcast edge of the FACING into the attachment seam. Fold the belt loops onto the skirt, and sew buttons corresponding to the buttonholes.
14. Overcast the lower edge of the skirt. On the lower side BACK SKIRT HALF, turn the lower allowance to the right side and stitch the vent corner. Turn the vent to the right side.