Gathered Collar Jacket
A cropped, fitted women's jacket with princess seams, a wide gathered collar running along the front edges and an edge-to-edge front tied with ribbon through decorative rings at the waist. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- Over dresses and blouses for evening events and celebrations.
- With skirts or trousers in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Cropped at the waist.
Collar: One-piece collar folded lengthwise and gathered by a decorative cord threaded through it; it is sewn to the fronts and goes round the back neck.
Front: Edge-to-edge; the interfaced centre front pieces are cut double and serve as facings.
Closure: Ribbon tie through decorative rings set into the fronts.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves, shorter than wrist length as drawn; shoulder pads.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts pressed towards the centre.
Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm on the facing; jacket and sleeve hem allowances 2.5 cm.
Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams, a bagged-out lining, a cord-gathered collar and decorative rings set into the fronts.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (back neck facing, two centre front pieces)
- Shoulder pads
- Decorative rings
- Decorative cord for the collar
- Ribbon for tying the jacket
Cutting Plan
- Main Fabric: Side Back – 2 pieces
- Main Fabric: Side Front – 2 pieces
- Main Fabric: Collar – 1 piece
- Main Fabric: Center Back – 2 pieces
- Main Fabric: Center Front – 4 pieces
- Main Fabric: Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Main Fabric: Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Lining Fabric: Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lining Fabric: Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lining Fabric: Center Back – 2 pieces
- Lining Fabric: Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Fusible Interfacing: Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Fusible Interfacing: Center Front – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the back neckline facing and to 2 of the center front pieces.
- Mark the darts on the back. Stitch the back darts and press them towards the center.
- Fold the collar in half lengthwise and stitch across the short ends, leaving an opening for the cord. Turn the collar right side out, straighten the seams and press. Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the edge of the collar and gather.
- Stitch the princess seams on the front (center front to side front). Press the princess seams open.
- Stitch the center back seam and press it open. Stitch the princess seams on the back (center back to side back) and press them open. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Stitch the sleeve seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Stitch the collar to the fronts.
- Stitch and overlock the princess seams of the lining pieces. Stitch the back neckline facing to the lining. The interfaced center front pieces act as the front facings. Stitch and overlock the shoulder and side seams of the lining. Set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in one sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining unit to the jacket along the front edges, with the front on top. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the fronts exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the lower front corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances to the facing in the closure area, 0.2 cm from the seam, stopping 3 cm from the neckline edge and from the lower corner. Turn the fronts right side out and straighten the seams. Remove the basting threads.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the lining sleeve. Stitch the opening closed.
- Mark the positions of the decorative rings on the fronts and insert the rings.
- Thread the cord through the collar and gather the collar.
