Sheath Dress with a Flared Overskirt
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic fitted sheath dress with a paneled bodice and short sleeves, worn with a separate flared overskirt that opens at the center front.
When To Wear
This dress is designed for a blend of elegance and comfort, making it a versatile choice for:
- Daytime Events: Perfect for brunches, garden parties, or afternoon social gatherings.
- Professional Settings: a sophisticated choice for office wear or business casual environments.
- Special Occasions: Suitable for semi-formal celebrations or cultural events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted sheath dress layered with a full, flared overskirt on a waistband.
Neckline: Classic round neckline finished with a facing.
Sleeves: Short, set-in sleeves for a polished arm line.
Bodice: The front is made of an upper front, a topstitched front yoke across the bust, and center and side front panels shaped with darts; the back has princess seams.
Waist: The overskirt is gathered onto a waistband whose ends can be tied in a bow or closed with a decorative buckle.
Skirt: a separate flared overskirt with a center back seam, open at the center front to reveal the dress underneath.
Back: Center back seam and princess seams on the dress.
Closure: Zipper in the center back seam of the dress; the overskirt fastens with its waistband.
Length: Finishes at knee-length, offering a timeless and versatile silhouette.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in dart manipulation, panel construction, zipper insertion, and setting in sleeves.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose lightweight fabrics with good drape for an elegant finish:
- Silk fabrics
- Viscose fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Zipper
- Decorative buckle (optional)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 1 piece
- Front Yoke – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 1 piece
- Front Skirt – 2 pieces
- Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Waistband – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Front Neckline Facing, Back Neckline Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Back Neckline Facing and Front Neckline Facing.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the Center Front. Press darts towards the center of the front.
- Stitch the Side Front to the Center Front. Overlock the seam allowances and press towards the center front.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the Upper Front. Overlock the seam allowances and press towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the Side Front and Center Front. Overlock the seam allowances and press towards the side and center front. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and overlock the princess seams on the back. Press the princess seams towards the center of the back.
- Overlock the center back edge of the back. Stitch the center back seam up to the notches for the zipper. Press open the center back seam, press the zipper openings. Insert the zipper.
- Overlock, stitch, and press the shoulder seams towards the back. Overlock, stitch, and press the side seams towards the back.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings and press open. Overlock the outer edge of the facings.
- Place the facing and dress right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Understitch the seam allowances to the facings 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and overlock the sleeve seams.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the cap. Overlock the seam.
- Overlock the hem seam allowances of the garment and sleeves, turn to the wrong side, and topstitch along the edge.
- Stitch the center back seam of the Back Skirt, overlock and press towards the right half.
- Stitch the side seams of the overskirt, overlock and press towards the Back Skirt.
- Overlock the center front edges of the Front Skirt, fold under and topstitch.
- Stitch the Waistband pieces together at the center, press the seam open. Overlock the lower edge of the Waistband. Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise. Stitch the Waistband to the upper edge of the overskirt. Fold it right sides together and stitch across the ends, then turn it right side out. Press the belt and topstitch into the attachment seam. Tip: If desired, you can tie the belt ends into a bow or attach a buckle.
- Overlock the lower edge of the skirt, fold, and topstitch. Tip: For a fuller skirt, you can add tulle in the upper part of the overskirt.
