Stand-Collar Utility Jacket
A short, fitted women's jacket in utility style with a stand collar, front yokes, an edge-to-edge front fastened with hook-and-loop tape and five flap patch pockets with pleated side gussets: four on the front and one on the sleeve. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- Spring and autumn, over T-shirts, shirts and fine knitwear with jeans or trousers.
- As a short jacket over dresses and skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Short, ending just below the waist.
Collar: Stand collar cut in two layers; the inner stand is set into the jacket neckline and the interfaced outer stand into the neckline of the facings.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam; a flap patch pocket on the upper sleeve.
Front: Yokes across the shoulders, princess seams below the chest pockets and separate front facings.
Closure: Edge-to-edge front with hook-and-loop (Velcro) tape sewn along the closure; no buttons.
Pockets: Two chest and two lower patch pockets on the front, plus one on the sleeve. Each has a side gusset with a pleat held by a 1–1.5 cm vertical bar tack, and a two-layer interfaced flap topstitched with a double row 0.2 cm from the edge, then flipped down and topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts at the back neckline.
Finishing: Front edge understitched onto the facing 0.2 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining cut on the same panel lines, with two-piece lining sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Five gusseted patch pockets with flaps placed symmetrically, a two-layer stand collar set between the jacket and the facings, two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, flaps, back neck facing, centre and side fronts, outer stand collar)
- Hook-and-loop (Velcro) tape
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 3. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 4. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 5. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- 6. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 8. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 9. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- 10. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 11. Flap 1 – 2 pieces
- 12. Pocket Side 1 – 1 piece
- 13. Patch Pocket 1 – 1 piece
- 14. Flap 2 – 8 pieces
- 15. Pocket Side 2 – 4 pieces
- 16. Patch Pocket 2 – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Center Front (lining pattern piece) – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 3. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 4. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 5. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 6. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Flap 1, Flap 2, Back Neckline Facing, Center Front, Side Front, one Stand Collar (outer collar).
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Flap 1 and Flap 2, Back Neckline Facing, Center Front, Side Front and the outer Stand Collar.
- Mark the darts on the back. Stitch the darts and press them toward the center.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, shape, and press the stand.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Front to the Side Front and the Center Back to the Side Back. Press the seams open.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Press the seam open.
- Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Turn the flap right side out through the open upper edge. Straighten the seams and topstitch with a double row of stitching 0.2 cm from the flap edge. Make the other flaps the same way. Mark the pocket placements on the front. Overlock the outer edge of the Pocket Side. Stitch the Pocket Side to the side and lower edges of the Patch Pocket and overlock. Turn under and topstitch the upper edge of the pocket. Fold a pleat in the Pocket Side and secure it to the pocket with a 1–1.5 cm vertical bar tack. Place the pocket on the marking and topstitch it in place. Place the flap at its marking and stitch it on. Flip the flap down and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. The pocket on the sleeve is made the same way.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin, and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facing to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowance onto the facing along the closure area, 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facings to the inside and straighten the seams.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the inner Stand Collar to the jacket neckline and the outer Stand Collar to the neckline edge of the facings.
- Stitch the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve along the elbow seam and press it open. Mark the pocket and flap placement on the sleeve. Topstitch the pocket and flap onto the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Insert the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right lining sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hem of the jacket and the sleeves. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Mark the positions and sew on the Velcro tape along the front closure.
