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Minervainervabeta
#5524
#5526

Flutter Sleeve Ruched Bodice Dress

Pattern #5525

A knee-length women's dress on bias-bound straps, with separate flutter cap sleeves, a gathered and tucked front neckline and a draped midriff on the front and back. The skirt is cut in panels: a long centre front panel rising to a point under the bust, curved yokes and side gores. Invisible zip at the centre back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Flutter Sleeve Ruched Bodice Dress

A knee-length women's dress on bias-bound straps, with separate flutter cap sleeves, a gathered and tucked front neckline and a draped midriff on the front and back. The skirt is cut in panels: a long centre front panel rising to a point under the bust, curved yokes and side gores. Invisible zip at the centre back.

When To Wear

  • Summer parties, weddings and daytime celebrations.
  • Warm days and holidays, with sandals or low heels.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice and midriff, then straight to slightly flared below the hips through the skirt gores.

Length: Knee length; hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.

Neckline: Scoop neckline at the front with tucks in the upper front and a facing band topstitched 0.2 cm from the fold; the edge is gathered to the desired fullness and bound with bias binding. The back edge is straight across and also bias-bound.

Sleeves: Flutter cap sleeves made as separate pieces: the outer edge is overlocked, turned under and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, the inner edge is bias-bound with the binding extended into straps. Their position is set at a fitting and they are sewn to the dress. The dress straps are also extensions of the bias binding at the neckline and armholes.

Front: Upper front, a lower front in two halves overlaid with hand-tacked draping, and a one-piece centre front panel that runs from the midriff to the hem.

Back: Upper back, a lower back in two halves with hand-tacked draping, and a centre back seam with a 25 cm invisible zip.

Skirt: Curved yokes on the front and back joined to side gores; the back skirt has two centre back gores.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Fixing draping by hand onto the midriff pieces, joining curved yokes and gores, tucks and gathers at the neckline, bias binding extended into straps, an invisible zip and fitting the straps and cap sleeves on the body.

Fabric Recommendations

Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

  • Fusible interfacing
  • Invisible zip, 25 cm
  • Bias binding (neckline, armholes, straps, cap sleeves)

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
    • Upper Front – 1 piece
    • Front Facing – 1 piece
    • Lower Front – 2 pieces
    • Front Draping – 2 pieces
    • Front Skirt Yoke – 2 pieces
    • Center Front – 1 piece
    • Side Front Skirt Gore – 2 pieces
    • Upper Back – 2 pieces
    • Lower Back – 2 pieces
    • Back Draping – 2 pieces
    • Back Yoke – 2 pieces
    • Side Back Skirt Gore – 2 pieces
    • Center Back Skirt Gore – 2 pieces
    • Cap Sleeve – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

  1. Mark and stitch the tucks on the upper front. Fold the lower edge of the front facing to the wrong side and press. Topstitch the pressed edge of the front facing to the upper front 0.2 cm from the fold.
  2. Lay the front draping onto the lower front and the back draping onto the lower back, aligning the edges. Secure the folds of the draping by hand (from now on treat each as one piece).
  3. Stitch the front skirt yoke to the side front skirt gore. Overlock the seam and press towards the gore. Stitch the back yoke to the side back skirt gore. Overlock the seam and press towards the gore.
  4. Stitch the side back skirt gore to the center back skirt gore. Overlock the seam and press towards the center back skirt gore.
  5. Stitch the lower back with draping to the back skirt, overlock the seam and press towards the skirt.
  6. Stitch the lower front to the upper edge of the front skirt yoke, overlock the seam and press towards the yoke.
  7. Stitch the panel seam on the front (center front to the side front pieces), overlock the seam and press towards the center front.
  8. Stitch the upper front to the upper edge of the lower front. Overlock the seam and press towards the draping.
  9. Stitch the upper back to the lower back. Overlock the seam and press downwards.
  10. Stitch and overlock the side seams. Press the side seams towards the back.
  11. Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the front neckline 0.5 cm from the edge. Gather to the desired amount. Press the bias tape in half lengthwise and bind the front neckline, the back neckline and the front armholes, extending the bias tape to form the straps.
  12. Overlock the outer edge of the cap sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Press the bias tape in half lengthwise and bind the inner edge of the cap sleeve, extending the bias tape to form straps.
  13. Overlock the center back edges. Stitch the center back seam up to the zipper notch. Press the center back seam open, pressing the zipper opening allowances. Insert the invisible zipper.
  14. Try on the dress, adjust the length of the straps and sew their ends to the back. Adjust the position of the cap sleeves and sew them on.
  15. Overlock the hem edge of the dress, fold up and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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