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#5523
#5525

Cowl Neck Dress with Asymmetric Flounce Hem

Pattern #5524

A women's slip dress on narrow straps that cross at the back, with a draped cowl at the front neckline and a fitted body shaped by long waist darts. A slanted seam at hip level joins a flounce with an asymmetric pointed hem and an extra tail layer underneath. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fabrics made of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Cowl Neck Dress with Asymmetric Flounce Hem

A women's slip dress on narrow straps that cross at the back, with a draped cowl at the front neckline and a fitted body shaped by long waist darts. A slanted seam at hip level joins a flounce with an asymmetric pointed hem and an extra tail layer underneath.

When To Wear

  • Summer parties, evening events and holidays in warm weather.
  • With sandals or heeled shoes; with a light jacket or wrap in the evening.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting bodice and hip section shaped by waist darts at the front and back, flaring out into the flounce below the hip seam.

Length: Asymmetric: the flounce hem drops to a long point on one side, where a separate tail piece hangs below it.

Neckline: Draped cowl at the front; the back neckline runs straight across at underarm level. Neckline and armholes are finished with interfaced facings, understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.

Straps: Narrow self-fabric straps, folded and stitched 0.5 cm from the fold, sewn to the front neckline. They cross at the back, and their length is adjusted on the wearer before the back ends are sewn on.

Back: Cut as right and left backs with a centre back seam and a concealed zip in its upper part.

Skirt: Front and back flounce pieces joined at the side seams and sewn to the slanted lower edge of the dress; the tail is basted to the flounce along its upper edge and sewn in with it.

Finishing: Lower edge of the flounce and outer edge of the tail finished with a rolled hem, stretching the edge as it is sewn.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A concealed zip, a cowl neckline and armholes finished with facings around the straps, rolled hems on curved flounce edges, and strap length set at a fitting.

Fabric Recommendations

Fabrics made of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

  • Concealed zip, 25 cm
  • Bias binding
  • Fusible interfacing (front and back facings)

Cutting Plan

  • From main fabric:
  • Front – 1 piece
  • Front Flounce – 1 piece
  • Back Flounce – 1 piece
  • Right Back – 1 piece
  • Left Back – 1 piece
  • Tail – 1 piece
  • Back Facing – 2 pieces
  • Front Facing – 1 piece
  • From fusible interfacing: Front Facing and Back Facings.

Sewing Instructions

  1. Fuse interfacing to the Front Facing and Back Facings.
  2. Mark and stitch the waist darts on the Front and backs. Press the darts on the Front towards the center front, and on the back towards the center back.
  3. Stitch the side seams of the Front and backs. Serge/overlock the side seams and press towards the back.
  4. Serge/overlock the center back seam allowance. Stitch the center back seam (Right Back to Left Back) up to the zipper notch. Press open the center back seam, pressing flat the zipper opening. Insert the zipper.
  5. Stitch the side seams of the Front Flounce and Back Flounce. Serge/overlock and press the flounce side seams towards the back. Finish the outer edge of the Tail with a rolled hem, stretching the edge. Finish the lower edge of the flounce with a rolled hem, stretching the edge. Baste the flounce and the Tail together along the upper edge, 0.5 cm from the edge.
  6. Stitch the flounce to the lower edge of the dress, aligning the side seams. Serge/overlock the seam and press towards the flounce.
  7. Stitch and press open the side seams of the Front Facing and Back Facings. Serge/overlock their lower edge.
  8. Cut the straps. Fold the straps lengthwise and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold. Turn the straps right side out and press. Baste the straps to the neckline edge of the Front.
  9. Place the facings on the dress right sides together and stitch the armhole and neckline edges of the front and back, keeping the straps out of the way. Understitch the armhole and neckline seam allowance to the facing at 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facings to the wrong side and press the armholes and neckline. Fold under the center back edge of the back facing and secure it at the zipper area.
  10. Try on the dress, adjust the strap length, crossing the straps at the back, and sew the back ends to the back.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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