Jacket with Contrast Collar and Cuffs
A women's hip-length lined jacket with a notched collar, a four-button front, princess seams from the armhole on front and back, single-welt pockets and turned-back cuffs on two-piece sleeves.
When To Wear
- For the office over blouses and fine knits, with trousers or a straight skirt.
- In spring and autumn as a light lined top layer.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armhole on the front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the undercollar is interfaced and set into the neckline.
Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons with buttonholes.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams. The sleeve hem is finished with interfaced upper and under sleeve facings, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge and turned back as cuffs.
Pockets: Horizontal single-welt pockets in the lower fronts, across the princess seams.
Back: Centre back seam and side back panels.
Finishing: Front edges topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Lining: Full lining cut from the body and sleeve panels, stitched to the sleeve facings and held to the jacket at the waist with 1 cm tacks along the princess seams.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets, a notched collar with lapels, faced sleeve hems and a full bagged lining turned through the sleeve.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, undercollar, sleeve facings)
- 4 buttons
Cutting Plan
- From main fabric:
- Center back piece – 2 pieces
- Side back piece – 2 pieces
- Undercollar – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Side front piece – 2 pieces
- Center front piece – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back piece – 2 pieces
- Side back piece – 2 pieces
- Side front piece – 2 pieces
- Center front piece – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- Pocket lining – 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the front facing, undercollar, under sleeve facing, and upper sleeve facing with interfacing.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch around the contour. Trim seam allowances, turn collar corners, and press the collar.
- Stitch the side front piece to the center front piece. Press the seam open.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch the side back piece to the center back piece. Press the seam open.
- Fold the welt piece right sides together lengthwise in the middle and press. Stitch the corners of the welt, trim excess fabric at the corners, and turn the welt right side out. Press the finished welt.
- On the welt, mark the stitching line to the front piece, measuring the width. On the front piece, mark the pocket placement. Place the welt on the right side of one pocket lining piece, right side up, with the finished edge down, aligning the raw edges and extending the lining edges beyond the welt by an equal amount. Place the welt on the front piece and align the marked lines on the front piece and the welt. Stitch the welt to the front piece. The welt will be sandwiched between the front piece and the pocket lining. Fold the stitching seam allowance of the welt and lining towards the welt. Place the second pocket lining piece on the right side of the front piece, wrong side down, abutting the welt stitching line; baste and stitch at a distance of 0.8-1 cm from the welt stitching line. Check the accuracy of the welt and pocket lining stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Remove temporary basting threads. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the pocket lining through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overlock the pocket lining. Baste the welt to the front piece and press. Topstitch the ends of the welt. Remove temporary basting threads.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Stitch and press open the side seams of the sleeve facings. Face the lower edge of the sleeve with the facings. Press the facing seam and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, wrong side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge line. Stitch from the front piece side up to the notch, which defines the end of the collar insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the center front piece strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams, and press.
- Set the undercollar into the jacket neckline.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam, and set in the sleeves. Press the lining seams. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the neckline edge of the upper collar. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams. Topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the front edge.
- Turn under the sleeve lining and stitch to the sleeve facings. Secure the lining to the jacket at the waist level along the design seams with a 1 cm tack. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- Mark and make buttonholes. Mark and sew on buttons.
