Jacket with Collar and Cuffs
A women's hip-length lined jacket with a notched collar, a four-button front, princess seams from the armhole on front and back, single-welt pockets and turned-back cuffs on two-piece sleeves.
When To Wear
- For the office over blouses and fine knits, with trousers or a straight skirt.
- In spring and autumn as a light lined top layer.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armhole on the front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the undercollar is interfaced and set into the neckline.
Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons with buttonholes.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams. The sleeve hem is finished with interfaced upper and under sleeve facings, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge and turned back as cuffs.
Pockets: Horizontal single-welt pockets in the lower fronts, across the princess seams.
Back: Centre back seam and side back panels.
Finishing: Front edges topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Lining: Full lining cut from the body and sleeve panels, stitched to the sleeve facings and held to the jacket at the waist with 1 cm tacks along the princess seams.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets, a notched collar with lapels, faced sleeve hems and a full bagged lining turned through the sleeve.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, undercollar, sleeve facings)
- 4 buttons
Cutting Plan
From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece on fold
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve Facing – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve (lining pattern) – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve (lining pattern) – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Lower Collar, Upper Sleeve Facing, Lower Sleeve Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Lower Collar, Lower Sleeve Facing and Upper Sleeve Facing.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Trim the corners, turn the collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the Side Front to the Center Front. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the center back seam and press it open. Stitch the Side Back to the Center Back. Press the seam open.
- Fold the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and press. Stitch across the ends, trim the excess fabric at the corners and turn the welt right side out. Press the finished welt.
- Mark the stitching line on the welt, measuring its width. Mark the pocket position on the front. Place the welt on the right side of one Pocket Bag piece, welt right side up and folded edge down, with the raw edges even and the pocket bag extending equally beyond both ends of the welt. Place the welt on the front, matching the marked lines on the front and on the welt. Stitch the welt to the front; the welt lies between the front and the pocket bag. Press the seam allowances of the welt and pocket bag towards the welt. Place the second Pocket Bag piece on the front, right sides together, butting it against the welt seam; baste and stitch 0.8–1 cm from the welt seam. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines are parallel. Remove the basting. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the pocket bag through the opening to the wrong side and straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends on the wrong side with a double row of backstitching across the base of the corner triangles. Stitch the pocket bag pieces together and overlock the edges. Baste the welt in place on the front and press. Topstitch the ends of the welt. Remove the basting.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Stitch the Upper Sleeve to the Lower Sleeve along the elbow seam and press it open. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Stitch the side seams of the Upper Sleeve Facing and Lower Sleeve Facing and press them open. Stitch the facings to the lower edge of the sleeve. Press the seam and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge line, with the front uppermost, from the hem up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the Center Front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges right side out, ease out the seams and press.
- Stitch the Lower Collar into the jacket neckline.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Stitch the seams of the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve, and set in the lining sleeves. Press the lining seams. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and to the neckline edge of the Upper Collar. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the front edge.
- Turn under the lining sleeve hems and stitch them to the sleeve facings. Tack the lining to the jacket at waist level along the princess seams with 1 cm bar tacks. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Mark and work the buttonholes. Mark and sew on the buttons.
