Unlined Blazer with Elbow Sleeves and Turn-Back Cuffs
A women's unlined, single-breasted hip-length jacket with a notched collar, four front buttons, princess seams and vertical welt pockets set into the front princess seams. The elbow-length sleeves have turn-back cuffs held by a buttoned tab, and the side seams end in short vents.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer over a T-shirt or a blouse, with trousers or a skirt.
- At the office as a short-sleeved suit jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams and darts at front and back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with an interfaced upper collar set into the facings and a separate under collar set into the jacket neckline.
Front: Single-breasted with four buttons; interfaced front facings stitched to the hem line at the lower edge.
Sleeves: Elbow-length set-in sleeves, eased into the armhole. The cuff is folded and attached to the sleeve hem; its extended part is topstitched to the sleeve and covered by the turn-back. A tab sewn into the cuff buttons onto the sleeve.
Pockets: Vertical welt pockets in the front princess seams, the welt ends stitched to the side front.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts; interfaced back neck facing.
Finishing: Side vents topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; seams overlocked.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. In-seam welt pockets, a notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, eased set-in sleeves, side vents and folded cuffs with tabs.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, welts, upper collar)
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Lower Collar – 1 piece
- 4. Upper Collar – 1 piece
- 5. Front Side – 2 pieces
- 6. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 7. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 8. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- 9. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 10. Strap – 4 pieces
- 11. Cuff – 2 pieces
- 12. Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- 13. Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Off-Set Welt, Upper Collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Off-Set Welt and Upper Collar.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the Center Back. Stitch the dart on the front and overlock it. Press the front dart towards the center front. Stitch the princess seams on the back (Side Back to Center Back) and overlock them. Press the back princess seams towards the center back.
- Fold the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch across the ends. Trim the allowances at the corners and turn the welt right side out. Press the welt. Stitch a Pocket Lining piece to the welt.
- Overlock the front princess seam edges along the pocket opening. Place a Pocket Lining piece on the right side of the Front Side, and the Pocket Lining with the welt on the Center Front, matching the notches, right side down. Stitch the pocket linings to the pocket opening allowances.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Front Side to Center Front) together with the pocket linings. Press the princess seam allowances towards the center and press the pocket lining. Overlock the princess seams and the pocket lining edges. Topstitch the short ends of the welt to the Front Side.
- Stitch the center back seam and overlock it. Press the center back seam towards the right back.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Trim the corners, turn the collar right side out and press.
- Overlock the outer edges of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing. Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, with the front uppermost, from the hem up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the Center Front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges right side out, ease out the seams and press.
- Overlock the side edges of the jacket and stitch the side seams down to the vent notches. Press the side seams open, pressing back the vent allowances. Topstitch along the vents 0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the shoulder seams and overlock them. Press the shoulder seams towards the back.
- Stitch the shoulder seams between the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings and press them open.
- Stitch the Lower Collar into the jacket neckline and the Upper Collar into the neckline of the facings. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Place the Strap pieces right sides together and stitch around, leaving the lower edge open for turning. Turn the strap right side out and press. Mark and work a buttonhole on the strap.
- Fold the Cuff wrong sides together along the marked line and press. Overlock the lower edge of the extended part of the cuff.
- Stitch the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Topstitch the seam allowance onto the sleeve 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the strap to the extended part of the cuff at the marking. Fold the strap back and topstitch the extended part of the cuff to the sleeve, so that the turn-back of the cuff covers the stitching.
- Overlock the sleeve edges. Stitch the sleeve seams and press them open.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve cap.
- Work the buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front. Mark and sew the buttons on the sleeves.
