Classic Button-Up Shirt with Flap Pockets
A hip-length women's shirt with a shoulder yoke, a collar on a stand, two flap patch pockets on the chest and long sleeves with bias-bound plackets, pleats and cuffs.
When To Wear
- For the office with trousers or skirts, tucked in or worn loose.
- Open over a T-shirt or with jeans for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, with bust darts pressed downwards.
Length: To the hip.
Collar: Shirt collar with pointed ends on a separate collar stand; upper collar and stand are interfaced.
Sleeves: Long, one-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps. Each sleeve has a placket opening finished with bias binding and pleats at the lower edge, gathered into an interfaced buttoned cuff.
Front: Button front with interfaced facings; buttonholes on the right front, buttons on the left.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the chest, stitched on 0.2 cm from the edge, each covered by a flap topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Back: One-piece yoke continuing over the shoulders to the front; the back below it is cut in two halves with a centre back seam.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; 2 cm hem, turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar on a stand, bias-bound sleeve plackets, cuffs, set-in sleeves, flap pockets and a yoke.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, upper collar, collar stand, cuffs)
- 10 buttons
- Bias binding (sleeve plackets)
Cutting Plan
- Yoke – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar Stand – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, upper collar, collar stand, and cuff.
- Mark and stitch darts on the front. Press darts downwards.
- Serge/overlock the inner edge of the front facing.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim seam allowances at flap corners and turn right side out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge and serge/overlock the upper edge of the flap.
- Serge/overlock the outer contour of the pocket and press it according to the pattern. Topstitch the upper edge onto the pocket, mark the pocket placement, and topstitch it along the contour 0.2 cm from the pocket edge. Place the flap to the mark and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and serge/overlock the center back seam. Press the center back seam towards the right back.
- Attach the yoke to the front. Serge/overlock the attachment seam and press towards the front.
- Face the front edges with facings, trim excess fabric at corners, and turn facings right side out. Press the front edges.
- Attach the yoke to the back. Serge/overlock the attachment seam and press towards the back. Stitch and serge/overlock the side seams of the shirt. Press the side seams of the shirt towards the back.
- Mark and cut the sleeve placket opening. Fold bias binding in half lengthwise and press. Finish the placket opening with bias binding, place a bar tack at the top corner of the opening. Stitch and serge/overlock the sleeve seam. Press the sleeve seam. Form pleats at the bottom of the sleeve from notch to notch.
- Set in sleeves, easing the cap.
- Stitch the lower collar to the upper collar, turn the collar right side out. Press the collar.
- Stitch the collar stands, inserting the collar between them. Press the collar stand.
- Attach the lower collar stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the upper collar stand and topstitch into the seam of the lower collar stand attachment.
- Stitch the side edges of the cuff and turn it right side out. Press the cuff into its finished shape.
- Attach the upper cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, and turn under and topstitch the lower cuff.
- Serge/overlock, fold under, and topstitch the hem of the garment.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
