Zippered Panelled Jacket with Stand Collar
A short women's denim jacket with a stand collar, a front separating zipper and arched shaped inserts on the front and back, finished with a hem band and two-piece sleeves with cuffs.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and early autumn.
- With jeans, trousers or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, short length ending in a hem band.
Collar: Stand collar in two layers, fastened with 2 snaps above the zipper.
Closure: Separating zipper set into the front edges, with the teeth visible, and front facings behind it.
Front: Front yoke; below it an arched shaped insert frames the centre front panel, with a side front panel at each side.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and arched shaped inserts around the centre back panels, matching the front.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a slit in the elbow seam and a two-layer cuff.
Finishing: Panel, insert and yoke seams and the centre back seam topstitched 0.5 cm away; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm along the zipper; collar stand and cuffs topstitched along the contour. The hem band is faced and shows a narrow piping edge from the upper band.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Curved insert seams topstitched in denim, an exposed separating zipper with facings, a faced hem band joined to the facings, and two-piece sleeves with slits and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (facings, collar stand, cuffs, back hem band, lower hem band)
- Separating zipper
- 2 snaps
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 2. Shaped Inset – 2 pieces
- 3. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Front Waistband – 2 pieces
- 6. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 7. Back Shaped Inset – 2 pieces
- 8. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 9. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 10. Back Waistband – 2 pieces
- 11. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- 12. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 13. Lower Front Waistband – 2 pieces
- 14. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 15. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 16. Cuff – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Stand Collar, Cuff, Back Waistband and Lower Front Waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Stand Collar, Cuff, Back Waistband and Lower Front Waistband.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge up to the notch. Trim the corners, turn the collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the Side Front to the Center Front. Overlock the seam and press it towards the center front. Stitch the Shaped Inset to the front. Overlock the seam and press it towards the inset. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the Side Front and Shaped Inset seams.
- Stitch the Side Back to the Center Back. Overlock the seam and press it towards the center back. Stitch the Back Shaped Inset to the back. Overlock the seam and press it towards the inset. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the Side Back and Back Shaped Inset seams.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Overlock the seam and press it towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke seam.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press it towards the right back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Overlock the seam and press it towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke seam.
- Stitch the Front Waistband to the front and press the seam towards the waistband. Stitch the Back Waistband to the back and press the seam towards the waistband.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner (lower) front and back waistband pieces and press them open. Overlock the upper edge of the inner waistband.
- Place the fronts right sides together, align the edges, matching the yokes, and check the length of the front edges. Stitch the separating zipper to the front edges. Turn under the front edges along the zipper and press.
- Overlock the outer edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge, with the front uppermost. Turn the front edges right side out, ease out the seams and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams and overlock them. Press the shoulder and side seams towards the back.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar into the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner Stand Collar and stitch it in the ditch of the collar seam. Topstitch around the collar. Tack the facings to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm bar tack.
- Stitch the center front end of the Lower Front Waistband to the outer edge of the Center Front Facing at the bottom. Press the seam and turn it to the right side. Stitch the inner waistband to the outer waistband around the lower front corner and along the hem. Trim the lower corners of the front edges and turn them right side out. Press the waistband, letting a narrow piping of the outer waistband show on the inside, and stitch the overlocked upper edge of the inner waistband in the ditch of the waistband seam. Topstitch along the zipper 0.5 cm from the front edge.
- Overlock the elbow edges of the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve. Stitch the elbow seam up to the slit notch. Press the elbow seam open and topstitch the slit allowances to the sleeve 0.5 cm from the edge. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the elbow seam. Stitch the front sleeve seam and overlock it.
- Place the Cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Stitch the outer cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Turn under the upper edge of the inner cuff by 1 cm and stitch it in the ditch of the cuff seam. Topstitch around the cuff. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Mark and attach the snaps to the Stand Collar.
