Leather Jacket
A sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a fitted leather jacket, distinguished by its structured panels, multiple functional pockets, and tailored buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear:
- Smart Casual Chic: Perfect for elevating everyday outfits with a touch of tailored sophistication.
- Professional & Business Casual: a stylish alternative to a blazer for a modern, confident look.
- Transitional Weather Layering: Provides warmth and style during cooler seasons or evenings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted jacket designed to flatter the figure, extending to the hip.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic notched lapel collar, creating a sharp and refined neckline.
Closure: a single-breasted front with a three-button closure for a polished finish.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves are meticulously shaped and finished with functional buttoned cuffs, each featuring four buttons.
Pockets: The front is detailed with two upper flap pockets and two lower patch pockets, each featuring a shaped flap. The lower patch pockets are secured with a single button.
Seaming: Distinctive horizontal and vertical panel seams define the jacket's tailored structure, including front and back yokes and princess seams.
Back: a clean, tailored back designed with central and side panels for a structured fit.
Hem: a straight-cut hem provides a clean finish to the jacket's length.
Length: Hip-length, offering versatile coverage.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires confident tailoring skills including working with leather, detailed seaming, collar and lapel construction, multiple pocket types, and full lining assembly.
Fabric Recommendations
For an authentic look and proper structure, choose materials suitable for outerwear with body and drape:
- Natural Leather
- Faux Leather
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 9 buttons
- Lining fabric
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back center bottom facing - 1 qty
- 2. Back side bottom facing - 2 qty
- 3. Front bottom facing - 2 qty
- 4. Patch pocket – 2 qty
- 5. Yoke – 2 qty
- 6. Back center - 2 qty
- 7. Back side – 2 qty
- 8. Lower collar – 1 qty
- 9. Upper collar – 1 qty
- 10. Front side – 2 qty
- 11. Front center upper – 2 qty
- 12. Front center lower – 2 qty
- 13. Underlap – 2 qty
- 14. Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- 15. Yoke pocket facing – 2 qty
- 16. Patch pocket facing – 2 qty
- 17. Sleeve – 2 qty
- 18. Cuff – 4 qty
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Back center - 2 qty
- 2. Back side – 2 qty
- 3. Front side – 2 qty
- 4. Front center upper – 2 qty
- 5. Front center lower – 2 qty
- 6. Sleeve – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: underlap, pocket facings, back neckline facing, front, back, and side bottom facings.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the underlaps, pocket facings, back neckline facing, and the bottom facings of the front, back, and side PANELs.
- Mark darts on the front and back. Stitch and press back darts towards the center. Stitch front darts and trim the dart depth. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the darts.
- Stitch the upper and lower parts of the front. Press seam allowance towards the upper. Attach the front side to the center front and press the seam open.
- Fold the yoke pocket facing with the yoke right sides together and stitch along the marked lines. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel and the distance between them equal to twice the finished width of the facings). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the pocket facing through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch around the perimeter of the pocket opening. Lay the yoke wrong side onto the right side of the front and topstitch along the outer contour.
- The processing of the welt pocket on the patch pocket is similar. Lay the patch pocket wrong side onto the right side of the lower front and topstitch along three sides.
- Stitch and press the center back seam. Stitch and press the back princess seams. Topstitch along the seams. Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams.
- Attach the back neckline facing to the underlaps. Insert the upper collar into the jacket neckline, and the lower collar into the facing neckline.
- Place the underlap with the collar on the wrong side of the front, wrong side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge and collar. Press the collar insertion seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
- Fold cuff pieces, wrong sides together, and topstitch along three sides. Fold the cuff into a ring along the marked line and secure. Attach the cuff to the sleeve, press the seam towards the sleeve. Topstitch along the cuff attachment seam. Insert sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- Stitch together the bottom facing pieces of the front, back, and side PANELs. Press seams open. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch darts, seams, and insert sleeves. Press lining seam allowances. Attach the bottom facing to the lining. Press the seam towards the lining. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the underlaps and the neckline facing. Turn the jacket right side out.
- Align the bottom edges of the jacket and facings and topstitch. Fold under the bottom seam allowance of the sleeve lining and secure to the cuff.
- On the right front, mark and overlock buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons. Sew buttons to the sleeve cuff.
