Denim Bootcut Jumpsuit
A women's sleeveless full-length denim jumpsuit with a shirt collar, a centre front zip from the neckline to below the waist, and princess seams that run through the bodice and the bootcut legs. Patch pockets with zipped openings on the chest and leg, a snap pocket on a tab, and a separate belt with a buckle and eyelets.
When To Wear
- Spring, summer and early autumn, on its own or over a T-shirt or thin knit top.
- Casual day wear and travel, with trainers, boots or heels under the bootcut hem.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice joined to the trousers at a waist seam; legs fitted through the hip, widening slightly to a bootcut hem.
Collar: Two-piece shirt collar (upper collar interfaced), set into the neckline between the front facings.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes overlocked, turned to the wrong side and topstitched.
Closure: Long centre front zip from the collar through the waist seam down to a notch, finished with facings and topstitched 0.5 cm along the zip.
Pockets: Two breast patch pockets, each shaped with a dart, with a slanted zipped welt opening (zip teeth visible), edgestitched 0.2 cm. On the left leg, a patch pocket with a zipped opening. On the right thigh, a long tab topstitched to the leg carrying a small rounded pocket closed with a snap.
Back: Bodice with a centre back seam and princess seams from the armholes; trousers with princess seams down the back legs.
Legs: Princess seams on front and back legs, pressed to the side panels and topstitched 0.5 cm; seat seam double-stitched.
Waist: Belt loops at the side seams and centre seams; a separate self-fabric belt, topstitched 0.5 cm around, with a buckle and eyelets.
Finishing: All princess seams topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; overlocked seams; 3 cm hem turned and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Three zipped welt openings in patch pockets, a long centre front zip with facings and a collar set between them, matching princess seams across the waist seam, and a layered tab pocket with a snap.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (belt, upper collar, front facings)
- Fusible stay tape (pocket openings)
- 1 long zipper
- 3 short zippers
- 1 snap
- 1 buckle
- 5 eyelets
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front Center Half – 2 pieces
- Front Side Half – 2 pieces
- Back Center Half – 2 pieces
- Side Back Half – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Breast Pocket – 2 pieces
- Patch Pocket – 1 piece
- Decorative Tab – 1 piece
- Decorative Pocket – 1 piece
- Decorative Pocket Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Waistband (belt) – 1 piece
- Belt-Loop – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: Waistband (belt), upper Collar, Center Front Facing; fusible stay tape for the pocket openings.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Waistband (belt), upper Collar and Center Front Facings; prepare the stay tape.
- Stitch the center back seam of the bodice (Center Back pieces). Overlock the seam and press it to the right side.
- Stitch the bodice princess seams (Center Front to Side Front, Center Back to Side Back). Overlock the princess seams and press them towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the princess seams.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the bodice. Overlock and press them towards the back.
- Overlock the Decorative Tab along the contour and press the seam allowances under by 1 cm, leaving one long edge unpressed. Overlock the Decorative Pocket along the contour, leaving the upper rounded part unfinished. Overlock the lower edge of the Decorative Pocket Facing, press under 1 cm and topstitch. Place the Decorative Pocket Facing and the Decorative Pocket right sides together and stitch. Trim the allowances at the rounded edges and turn the pocket right side out. Press the pocket allowances according to the pattern and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge along the upper rounded part. Place the Decorative Pocket on the Decorative Tab and topstitch, leaving the pocket opening free. Attach the snap. Mark the tab position on the jumpsuit leg and topstitch it along the contour.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back legs (Back Center Half to Side Back Half). Overlock the seams and press them towards the Side Back Half. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the princess seams of the front legs (Front Center Half to Front Side Half). Overlock the seams and press them towards the Front Side Half. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the inseams. Overlock the inseams and press them towards the back.
- Stitch the side seams of the pants section. Overlock the side seams and press them towards the back.
- Overlock the back crotch (seat) seam edges and the center front edges. Stitch the seat seam and the front seam up to the zipper notch. Stitch a second line along the crotch seam next to the first stitching.
- Overlock the Breast Pocket along the contour. Mark the zipper placement on the pocket. Cut welt strips from the main fabric. Reinforce the pocket opening with stay tape and check the zipper placement. Stitch the welts along the markings. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines are parallel. Cut the pocket opening, making angled cuts 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the allowances through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the welts, and press. Overlock the welts. Stitch the zipper under the welt edges so that the teeth are visible. Edgestitch around the opening 0.2 cm from the edge. Mark and stitch the dart on the Breast Pocket. Press the Breast Pocket allowances under by 1 cm.
- Overlock the Patch Pocket along the contour. Press its allowances under by 1 cm. Mark the zipper placement and work it the same way as on the Breast Pocket. Mark the pocket placement and topstitch the pocket along the contour 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the under collar and upper collar together, turn the collar right side out and topstitch.
- Stitch the pants section to the bodice. Overlock the seam and press it towards the pants. Insert the zipper down to the notch.
- Overlock the inner edge of each Center Front Facing. Stitch the facings to the center front edges of the jumpsuit.
- Set the collar into the neckline, sandwiching it between the facings. Overlock the collar seam and topstitch the seam allowance to the back neckline. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the zipper.
- Overlock the armhole edges, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the Belt-Loop strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges and stitch 0.5–0.7 cm from the edges. Turn right side out, straighten the seam so that it lies on the fold or forms a 0.1–0.2 cm edge on the inside, and press.
- Cut the belt loops to size and topstitch them onto the side seams and center seams at the waistline.
- Fold the Waistband (belt) lengthwise in half, right sides together. Stitch on three sides, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn the belt right side out and press. Topstitch around the belt 0.5 cm from the edge. Slide the buckle onto the belt, fold the end to the wrong side and stitch to form a loop. Mark and set the eyelets. Thread the belt through the belt loops.
- Overlock the lower edge of the legs. Turn up and press the hem allowance, then topstitch it.
