Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interlining; 5 buttons; decorative belt.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm, hem allowance for the bottom of the garment - 2 cm, sleeve hem - 1.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Front half – 2 pieces
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Front bodice – 2 pieces
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Belt loop – 1 piece
- From fusible interlining:
- Inner collar stand
- Inner plackets
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Reinforce the collar stand and plackets with fusible interlining.
- Stitch the darts on the back pieces, press towards the center of the piece. On the front bodice pieces, create and secure pleats according to markings. (Depths are directed towards the center.)
- Stitch the center back seam. Press allowances to the left side and overcast.
- Place the pocket bag on the front half and stitch the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, topstitch allowances onto the pocket bag with a 0.1 cm seam and press.
- Place the front half on the side panel according to markings. Stitch the pocket bag to the side panel, overcast allowances. Secure the pocket bag to the front half along the top and side edges.
- Stitch the center seam of the front halves, press allowances and overcast. Attach the front bodice pieces to the front halves, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Fold the placket pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn the placket to the right side, press. Fold the plackets with the front bodice and stitch precisely to the corner at the bottom. Clip allowances at the corner, press towards the front bodice and overcast. Turn the plackets to the right side, tuck the bottom edges of the plackets inwards. Stitch across the plackets at the base of the corner.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch the inseams, press allowances towards the back half and overcast.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge and side edges, starting and ending the stitch precisely at the marked line for attaching the collar stand to the neckline. Clip allowances, turn the collar stand to the right side, press.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold the open longitudinal edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch and overcast the sleeve edge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overcast.
- Overcast the sleeve hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Overcast the trouser leg hem allowance, press the cuff to the wrong side along the center line and topstitch to the width of the cuff. Press the cuff onto the trouser leg and secure at the side and inseams.
- On the right placket, overcast buttonholes, on the left placket, sew on buttons.
- Overcast one long side of the belt loop. Fold the unovercast edge inwards and cover with the overcast edge. Stitch two parallel lines 0.1 cm from the edge. Cut the belt loops, overcast the short sides. Fold the short sides inwards and attach the belt loops to the side seams, positioning the horizontal seam of the front bodice in the middle of the belt loop.
