Wide Leg Denim Cargo Pants
Women's full-length wide-leg denim trousers with a front panel seam on each leg ending in an exposed decorative zip, pleated cargo patch pockets with snap flaps and a faced waist with side straps.
When To Wear
- For everyday wear in spring, autumn and mild winter days, with T-shirts, sweatshirts and short jackets.
- With trainers or boots for travel and outdoor days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Wide, straight legs from the hip to the hem.
Length: Full length, with a 3 cm topstitched hem.
Waist: No separate waistband: the top edge is finished with shaped outer and inner facings that form a band. A strap is topstitched onto the facing at each side. Button and buttonhole at the front.
Closure: Zip fly, 13 cm zip, with a fly shield and topstitching on the right front.
Legs: Each front is cut in two halves joined by a vertical panel seam, topstitched down to a notch; below it, a decorative zip is set into the seam with the teeth visible. Darts on the fronts are pressed downwards. Inseams pressed towards the back; crotch seam stitched twice.
Pockets: Slanted front hip pockets with lining pocket bags, held at the top by a 3 cm bar tack. A patch pocket with a pleated facing on each leg and a smaller lower patch pocket on the left leg, each under a flap topstitched with a double row 0.5 cm from the edge and closed with snaps.
Back: Two back halves with no pockets or yoke.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Zip fly with fly shield, exposed zips set into a panel seam, pleated cargo pockets with flaps, faced waist with straps, lots of topstitching on denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (waist facings, fly shield, pocket opening allowance)
- 1 zip, 13 cm long, for the fly
- 2 decorative zips
- 1 button
- 6 snaps
- Lining fabric for the pocket bags
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front Right Half – 2 pieces
- Front Left Half – 2 pieces
- Side Front Panel – 2 pieces
- Back Half – 2 pieces
- Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Upper Patch Pocket Facing – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Lower Patch Pocket – 1 piece
- Lower Patch Pocket Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Flap – 2 pieces
- Front Right Facing – 2 pieces
- Front Left Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- Button Catch – 1 piece
- Strap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Front Right Facing, Front Left Facing, Back Facing, Button Catch, pocket opening seam allowance.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Front Right Facing, Front Left Facing, Back Facing, Button Catch and the pocket opening seam allowance.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the fronts. Press the dart fold downwards.
- Overlock the panel seam edges of the Front Right Half and Front Left Half. Stitch the panel seam joining the Front Right Half and Front Left Half down to the notch. Press the panel seam open and press under the edges of the lower opening for the zipper. Topstitch along the panel seam down to the notch. Insert the decorative zipper into the opening so that the teeth are visible.
- Face the upper edge of the pocket opening on the front with the Front Pocket Bag and topstitch. Place the Side Front Panel on the Front Pocket Bag, stitch the edges together and overlock. Tack the Side Front Panel to the front along the upper edge with a 3 cm bar tack.
- Overlock and stitch the side seams of the trousers. Press the side seams open.
- Fold the Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Turn the flap right side out through the open upper edge. Straighten the seams and topstitch a double row 0.5 cm from the flap edge. Make the Lower Flap the same way. Mark the pocket placement on the trousers. Overlock the side edge of the Upper Patch Pocket Facing. Stitch the Upper Patch Pocket Facing to the side and lower edges of the Patch Pocket and overlock. Turn under and topstitch the upper edge of the pocket. Fold a pleat in the pocket facing and secure it to the pocket with a 1–1.5 cm vertical bar tack. Place the pocket on the marking and topstitch it in place. Place the flap on the marking and stitch it. Turn the flap down to the right side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Make the Lower Patch Pocket with the Lower Patch Pocket Facing and attach it with the Lower Flap the same way.
- Overlock the crotch edges of the trouser pieces and the hem edges. Stitch and overlock the inseams. Press the inseams towards the back. Stitch the crotch seam (front and back) up to the zipper notch. Stitch a second row along the crotch seam next to the first stitching.
- Fold the Button Catch (fly shield) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short lower end. Turn the Button Catch right side out, overlock its inner edge and press. Press the cut-on fly facings to the wrong side. Stitch the zipper under the edge of the left fly allowance, close to the edge, catching the Button Catch at the same time. Stitch the free zipper tape to the cut-on facing of the right front. Topstitch the fly on the right front, catching the facing.
- Stitch the side seams of the outer Front Right Facing, Front Left Facing and Back Facing and press the seams open. Stitch the facings to the upper edge of the trousers and press the seam towards the facings.
- Fold each Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch two sides. Trim the corners, turn right side out, straighten the corners and press. Mark the strap placement on the facings. Tuck in the raw ends of the strap and topstitch it to the facings along the marking.
- Overlock the lower edge of the inner facings. Place the inner facings right sides together with the attached outer facings and stitch along the upper edge. Understitch the seam allowance to the inner facings 0.2 cm from the seam, stopping 3 cm from each end. Stitch the facing ends, trim the excess and turn out the corners. Stitch the inner facings in the ditch of the outer facing seam and press.
- Press the 3 cm hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Make a buttonhole on the right side of the waist facing and sew a button on the left side. Set the upper parts of the snaps on the flaps and the lower parts on the pockets, according to the markings.
