CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Side panel of FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 2. FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 3. BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- 4. Front FACING right – QTY 2
- 5. Front FACING left – QTY 2
- 6. Fly shield – QTY 1
- 7. Back FACING – QTY 2
- 8. Belt loop – QTY 1
- 9. Waistband – QTY 1
- From LINING fabric:
- 1. Pocket LINING – QTY 2
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: back and front FACINGS, fly shield, pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCES.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to back and front FACINGS, fly shield, and pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Press darts on FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
- Mark the pocket on the front pant leg. Fold the FACING with the pocket right sides together and pin along the drawn pocket opening line. From the wrong side, stitch along the marked pocket lines, forming a rectangle. Cut the FACING and main piece along the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts 1-1.5cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the FACING to the wrong side through the opening and straighten the edges, press the pocket opening. Place the ZIPPER under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Topstitch the pocket opening close to the edge at a distance of 0.2 cm. Baste the false pocket stay to the FACING SEAM ALLOWANCES, trim excess fabric, and stitch the stay to the FACING SEAM ALLOWANCES. Remove temporary basting stitches and serge the outer contour of the FACING and stay.
- Finish the upper edge of the pocket on the front pant leg with the pocket LINING and topstitch. Fold the side panel of the FRONT PANEL with the pocket LINING, stitch and serge the edges. Secure the side panel to the front pant leg at the upper edge with a 3 cm bar tack.
- Stitch and serge the side seam of the pants. Press the side seam towards the back pant leg.
- Serge: the front and center seams of the pant legs and the bottom hem of the pants. Stitch and serge the inseams. Press the inseams towards the back pant leg. Stitch the front seam and center seam up to the NOTCH for the ZIPPER. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the stitching line of the front and center seam.
- Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short bottom edge. Turn the fly shield to the right side and press. Serge the inner edge of the fly shield and press into its finished shape.
- Press the one-piece ZIPPER FACINGS to the wrong side. Stitch the ZIPPER under the edge of the closure SEAM ALLOWANCE (left side) close to the edge, simultaneously with the fly shield. Stitch the free ZIPPER tape to the right pant leg to the one-piece FACING. Topstitch along the right side of the front pant leg, catching the FACING.
- Serge the side edges of the belt loop, press, and topstitch at a distance of 0.3 cm from the edge. Press the belt loop into its finished shape.
- Stitch the side edges of the front and back FACINGS, press seams open. Mark the position of the belt loops and stitch them to the lower edge of the FACINGS. Stitch the FACINGS to the upper edge of the pants and press the stitching seam towards the FACINGS.
- Serge the outer edge of the lower FACINGS. Fold the FACINGS right sides together with the attached FACINGS and stitch the upper edge. Topstitch the stitching seam onto the lower FACINGS at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seam, stopping 3 cm from each end. Stitch the ends of the FACINGS, trim excess fabric, and turn out the corners.
- Topstitch the lower FACINGS into the stitching seam of the upper FACINGS and press. Fold and topstitch the upper SEAM ALLOWANCES of the belt loops onto the FACINGS.
- Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Serge the buttonhole on the right side of the FACING, and sew the button on the left side.
