Mid-Rise Jeans with Lace-Up Fly
Women's full-length mid-rise jeans with a lace-up front closure on eyelets and cord, fronts cut in three panels with a curved insert at the lower outer leg, and a waist finished with shaped facings instead of a waistband.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear in spring, autumn and winter, with T-shirts, shirts and knitwear.
- With short tops or tucked-in blouses that leave the laced front visible.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the hip, legs widening slightly towards the hem.
Length: Full length.
Closure: Lace-up opening at the centre front: eyelets punched through the front and its facing, threaded with a cord, with a fly shield behind the opening.
Front: Each front is made of a centre front panel, a side front panel and a curved insert at the outer leg below the knee. The seams are pressed towards the side front and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Pockets: Front pockets with a facing piece and cotton pocket bags; the opening is topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge and secured at the top with a 3 cm bar tack.
Back: Plain backs with a centre back seam, no back pockets.
Waist: No separate waistband: the top edge is finished with lower and upper facings, topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge, with belt loops caught into the seam.
Finishing: Double-stitched seat seam, hem turned and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Panelled fronts with topstitching, front pockets with pocket bags, a lace-up opening with fly shield and facings, eyelets set in denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Cotton lining fabric for the pocket bags
- Fusible interfacing (upper front facing, back facing, fastening facing, fly shield)
- 1 button
- Eyelets
- Cord
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Side front – 2 pieces
- 2. Center front – 2 pieces
- 3. Back facing – 4 pieces
- 4. Upper front facing – 2 pieces
- 5. Side – 2 pieces
- 6. Front insert – 2 pieces
- 7. Fly shield – 1 piece
- 8. Back – 2 pieces
- 9. Belt loop – 1 piece
- 10. Lower front facing – 2 pieces
- 11. Fastening facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- 2. Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: upper front facing, back facing, fastening facing, fly shield.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to FACINGs and fly shield.
- Stitch and overlock the front insert to the side front. Press the seam allowance towards the side front of the trousers and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and overlock the center front to the side front. Press the seam allowance towards the side front and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Overlock the outer edge of the side and topstitch it to the large pocket bag. Mark the pocket opening line on the side. Face the pocket opening on the center front with the small pocket bag. Press the pocket opening, forming a clean edge, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the pocket edge. Align the front with the marked line on the side. Secure the upper edge of the front and side with a 3 cm bar tack. Stitch the pocket bag and overlock it.
- Fold the lower front facing with the trouser front wrong sides together and stitch the lower front facing. Fold the lower back facing with the trouser back wrong sides together and stitch the lower back facing. Press the seam allowance towards the facing.
- Overlock: side edges of the back and front, inseam edges of the front and back, front and center edges of the trouser panels.
- Stitch the front edge from the notch, stopping 2 cm before the inseam edge.
- Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise and face the short lower and upper edges. Turn the fly shield right side out, press, and overlock the straight vertical edges together. Place the fly shield under the trouser front and topstitch the fly shield to the left side of the front 2 cm from the front edge. The upper edge of the fly shield should be level with the seam of the lower facing.
- Stitch the center edge of the fastening facing and press open. Press the outer edge of the fastening facing 1 cm. Place the right side of the fastening facing to the wrong side of the trouser front and face the front edge, folding back the fly shield. Turn the facing to the right side of the front and press.
- Fold the belt loop lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges, and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn right side out, straighten the seam, placing it on the fold, or create a 0.1-0.2 cm wide edge on the inside and press.
- Stitch the inseams and press open. Stitch the center back seam and 2 cm of the front seam. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the stitching line of the front and center seam.
- Stitch the side edges of the front and back. Press the side seams open.
- Stitch and press open the side edges of the upper FACINGs. Press the outer edge of the upper FACINGs 1 cm. Place the stitched FACINGs right side to the wrong side of the trousers, place the fastening facing under the front upper facing, and face the upper edge. Topstitch the seams to the inner facing 0.2 cm from the facing seam and press.
- Cut belt loops to size. Trim seam allowances at the corners of the fastening FACINGs and turn the FACINGs right side out. Topstitch the lower edge of the upper FACINGs into the seam of the lower FACINGs, inserting the belt loops. Topstitch the belt loops according to markings on the upper edge of the FACINGs.
- Topstitch the fastening facing to the front.
- Overlock the hem allowance and press to the wrong side. Topstitch the hem allowances to the trousers.
- Mark and punch eyelets on the trouser front. Thread the cord.
