Mid-Rise Jeans with Lace-Up Fly
Women's full-length mid-rise jeans with a lace-up front closure on eyelets and cord, fronts cut in three panels with a curved insert at the lower outer leg, and a waist finished with shaped facings instead of a waistband.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear in spring, autumn and winter, with T-shirts, shirts and knitwear.
- With short tops or tucked-in blouses that leave the laced front visible.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the hip, legs widening slightly towards the hem.
Length: Full length.
Closure: Lace-up opening at the centre front: eyelets punched through the front and its facing, threaded with a cord, with a fly shield behind the opening.
Front: Each front is made of a centre front panel, a side front panel and a curved insert at the outer leg below the knee. The seams are pressed towards the side front and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Pockets: Front pockets with a facing piece and cotton pocket bags; the opening is topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge and secured at the top with a 3 cm bar tack.
Back: Plain backs with a centre back seam, no back pockets.
Waist: No separate waistband: the top edge is finished with lower and upper facings, topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge, with belt loops caught into the seam.
Finishing: Double-stitched seat seam, hem turned and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Panelled fronts with topstitching, front pockets with pocket bags, a lace-up opening with fly shield and facings, eyelets set in denim.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Cotton lining fabric for the pocket bags
- Fusible interfacing (upper front facing, back facing, fastening facing, fly shield)
- 1 button
- Eyelets
- Cord
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Side Front Panel – 2 pieces
- 2. Center Front Half – 2 pieces
- 3. Back Facing – 4 pieces
- 4. Front Upper Facing – 2 pieces
- 5. Side (pocket side piece) – 2 pieces
- 6. Front Half Inset – 2 pieces
- 7. Button Catch (fly shield) – 1 piece
- 8. Back Half – 2 pieces
- 9. Belt Loop – 1 piece
- 10. Front Lower Facing – 2 pieces
- 11. Closure Facing – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- 1. Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- 2. Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Front Upper Facing, Back Facing, Closure Facing, Button Catch.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Front Upper Facings, the Back Facings, the Closure Facings and the Button Catch.
- Stitch the Front Half Inset to the Side Front Panel and overlock the seam. Press the seam towards the Side Front Panel and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Center Front Half to the Side Front Panel and overlock the seam. Press the seam towards the Side Front Panel and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Overlock the outer edge of the Side and topstitch it to the Big Pocket Bag. Mark the pocket opening line on the Side. Face the pocket opening of the Center Front Half with the Smaller Pocket Bag. Press the opening, rolling the seam slightly to the inside, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the front on the Side along the marked line. Secure the upper edge of the front and the Side with a 3 cm bar tack. Stitch around the pocket bag and overlock it.
- Place the Front Lower Facing on the trouser front, wrong sides together, and stitch it on. Place the lower Back Facing on the Back Half, wrong sides together, and stitch it on. Press the seam allowances towards the facing.
- Overlock the side edges and inseam edges of the front and back and the centre front and centre back edges.
- Stitch the centre front seam from the notch, stopping 2 cm before the inseam edge.
- Fold the Button Catch lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch across the short lower and upper ends. Turn it right side out, press and overlock the long raw edges together. Place the Button Catch under the trouser front and topstitch it to the left front 2 cm from the front edge. The upper edge of the Button Catch should be level with the Front Lower Facing seam.
- Stitch the centre seam of the Closure Facings and press it open. Press under 1 cm along the outer edge of the Closure Facing. Place the right side of the Closure Facing on the wrong side of the trouser front and stitch along the front edge, folding the Button Catch out of the way. Turn the Closure Facing to the right side of the front and press.
- Fold the Belt Loop strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges and stitch 0.5–0.7 cm from the edges. Turn it right side out and press, with the seam either on the fold or rolled 0.1–0.2 cm to the underside.
- Stitch the inseams and press them open. Stitch the centre back (seat) seam and the remaining 2 cm of the front seam. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the first stitching.
- Stitch the side seams joining the front and the Back Half. Press the side seams open.
- Stitch the side seams of the upper facings (Front Upper Facings and upper Back Facings) and press them open. Press under 1 cm along the outer edge of the upper facings. Place the joined upper facings right side to the wrong side of the trousers, slip the Closure Facing under the Front Upper Facing and stitch along the upper edge. Topstitch the seam allowances onto the inner facing 0.2 cm from the seam and press.
- Cut the belt loops to length. Trim the seam allowances at the corners of the Closure Facings and turn them right side out. Topstitch the lower edge of the upper facings over the seam of the lower facings, catching in the belt loops. Stitch the belt loops to the upper edge of the facings at the marks.
- Topstitch the Closure Facing to the front.
- Overlock the hem allowance and press it to the wrong side. Topstitch the hem.
- Mark and set the eyelets on the trouser front. Thread the cord.
