Sleeveless Keyhole Blouse with Gathered Empire Seam

Name: Sleeveless Keyhole Blouse with Gathered Empire Seam
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5420
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5420

A sleeveless women's top in knit fabric, high-hip length, with a pointed collar, a keyhole slit at the centre front closed by a button and loop, soft pleats above a V-shaped underbust seam and a zipper in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit fabric.

Tech. Description

Sleeveless Keyhole Blouse with Gathered Empire Seam

When To Wear

For the office tucked into or worn over trousers and skirts.
In summer on its own, in spring and autumn under a jacket or cardigan.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted; fullness above the underbust seam, close-fitting below it.

Length: High hip.

Collar: Pointed collar of an interfaced upper collar and an under collar, set into the neckline.

Front: Upper front in two halves joined by a centre front seam; above the notch the seam is left open as a keyhole slit finished with bias binding. Shallow pleats on the upper front are stitched into a V-shaped seam to a one-piece lower front.

Closure: Button and thread loop at the top of the keyhole, below the collar; zipper in the left side seam.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes turned under and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, or bound with bias binding.

Back: Centre back seam and a vertical dart on each side.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A collar and a side zipper set into knit fabric, a bias-bound keyhole slit, and pleats joined into a V-shaped seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit fabric. Sew the seams with a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch; overlock the hem and topstitch it with a twin needle so the edges keep their stretch.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (upper collar)
1 button
Zipper
Bias binding

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Collar – 2 pieces
Back – 2 pieces
Upper Front – 2 pieces
Lower Front – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing: upper Collar.

Sewing Instructions

Tip: To keep the seams stretchy, sew the pieces together with a narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch. To keep the lower edge stretchy, overlock the hem allowance and then topstitch it with a twin needle. Finish any other edges that must keep their stretch in the same way. These recommendations do not apply to industrial production.

Fuse interfacing to the upper Collar.
Mark the dart on each Back and stitch it. Press the dart towards the centre back.
Stitch the centre back seam. Overlock the seam and press it towards the right back.
Bind the edges of the keyhole opening with bias binding. Overlock the centre front edges of the Upper Front. Stitch the centre front seam up to the notch. Press the seam open.
Fold the shallow pleats on the Upper Front and stitch the Lower Front to it. Overlock the seam and press it towards the Upper Front.
Stitch the shoulder seams. Overlock the seams and press them towards the back.
Overlock the side edges of the top. Stitch the side seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for the zipper. Press the side seams open, pressing back the zipper opening allowances as well.
Place the upper and under Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Trim the corners, turn the collar right side out and press, letting the upper collar roll slightly over the edge to the underside.
Stitch the under Collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the upper Collar and topstitch it over the neckline seam.
Overlock the armhole edges of the front and back. Press the overlocked allowances to the wrong side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the folded edge, or bind the armhole edges with bias binding.
Insert the zipper into the left side seam.
Sew a loop on the right front and a button on the left front.
Overlock the lower edge of the top, press it up and topstitch.