Asymmetric Zip-Front Moto Jacket
A women's fitted, hip-length denim biker jacket with an off-centre separating zip, a collar with wide lapels, two zipped welt pockets in the front darts and a full cotton lining.
When To Wear
- As a light jacket in spring and autumn over T-shirts, shirts and fine knits.
- With jeans, trousers or dresses for casual wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped with front darts and back darts pressed towards the centre back.
Length: Hip length; 3 cm hem allowance on the jacket and sleeves.
Closure: Asymmetric separating zip set between the left front and an interfaced cut-off facing strip, topstitched 0.2 cm from the zip seam.
Collar: Two-piece collar with an interfaced undercollar, set between the jacket and the lining; the fronts turn back into wide lapels.
Pockets: Two angled zip pockets, the opening cut in the lower part of the front dart, reinforced with stay tape and edge-stitched 0.2 cm over a visible zip, with cotton pocket bags.
Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves, armhole seams double-topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Shoulder and side seams pressed towards the back and double-topstitched 0.2 cm; double topstitching along the front edges, collar and lapels; hem and sleeve hems stitched 2 cm from the edge through the lining.
Lining: Full cotton lining with a turning opening in the right sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. An asymmetric separating zip with cut-off facings, zip pockets cut into the darts, a collar set between jacket and lining, and bagging out a full lining through the sleeve.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Cotton lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (cut-off facings, undercollar)
- Separating zip
- 2 zips for the pockets
- Stay tape for the pocket openings
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 3 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Lower Collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings and the Lower Collar.
- Place the Upper Collar and the Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Trim the corners and turn the collar right side out.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the Back. Press the darts towards the centre back.
- Stitch the lower part of the dart on each front. Trim the excess fabric. Reinforce the pocket opening with fusible stay tape and mark the exact pocket position. Cut the pocket opening, clipping diagonally into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the allowances through the opening to the wrong side and press the opening. Place the zip under the edges of the opening so that the teeth show. Edge-stitch around the opening 0.2 cm from the edge. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag and the Bigger Pocket Bag to the allowances. Stitch and overlock the pocket bag.
- Stitch the separating zip to the Left Front. Stitch a Center Front Facing to the Left Front and topstitch 0.2 cm from the zip seam. Stitch the other half of the zip to the Right Front.
- Place the Center Front Facings on the Right Front and the Left Front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge, working from the front side, up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the fronts exactly on the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Turn the front edges right side out and press the seams to the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press the seams towards the Back and topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seams and press them.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches, and topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the armhole seam.
- Stitch the lining pieces together, leaving an opening in the right sleeve seam; press the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings. Place the collar between the jacket and the lining and stitch it into the neckline. Topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the edge along the full length of the front edges of the Right Front and Left Front and around the collar edge and collar ends.
- Stitch the lining to the lower edge of the sleeves and of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the right sleeve. Close the opening in the right sleeve seam. Stitch around the lower edge of the sleeves and of the jacket 2 cm from the folded edge.
