Denim Pants with Curved Panels
Women's full-length wide-leg trousers in stretch denim, with curved panel seams on the front and back, patch pockets with an inverted pleat and buttoned flaps, a fly zip and a waistband with belt loops.
When To Wear
- All year round with shirts, knit tops and jackets.
- With flat shoes or boots for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist and hips, with wide straight legs.
Length: Full length; 2 cm hem allowance, turned and topstitched.
Legs: Front and back each cut in a centre and a side panel; the curved panel seam runs from the waist towards the centre and down the leg, topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam. Seat seam double-stitched.
Pockets: Two patch pockets with an inverted pleat, topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge, under interfaced flaps topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge and closed with a button.
Closure: Front fly zip with cut-on facings and a separate fly shield.
Waist: Straight interfaced waistband folded in half, with belt loops and one button.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A fly zip with a fly shield, curved panel seams with topstitching, pleated patch pockets with flaps and a waistband with belt loops.
Fabric Recommendations
Stretch denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (waistband, flaps)
- 3 buttons
- Trouser zip
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Side Front Panel – 2 pieces
- 2. Center Front Half – 2 pieces
- 3. Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- 4. Flap – 4 pieces
- 5. Center Back Half – 2 pieces
- 6. Side Back Half – 2 pieces
- 7. Belt Loop – 1 piece
- 8. Waistband – 1 piece
- 9. Button Catch (fly shield) – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing: Waistband, Flap.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Waistband and the Flaps.
- Stitch and serge the curved panel seam joining the Side Front Panel and the Center Front Half, press the seam towards the Center Front Half and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and serge the curved panel seam joining the Side Back Half and the Center Back Half, press the seam towards the Center Back Half and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the flaps right side out. Topstitch around the outer edge of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge and serge the upper edge of each flap.
- Stitch and serge the side seams. Press the side seams towards the back.
- Serge the centre front and centre back edges of the trouser halves and the lower edges of the legs. Stitch and serge the inseams. Press the inseams towards the back. Stitch the crotch seam from the zip notch at the front to the top of the centre back seam. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the first stitching.
- Fold and press the inverted pleat on the Patch Pocket. Secure the pleat with stitching 0.5 cm from the upper and lower edges of the pocket. Serge the outer edge of the pocket and press the allowances to the wrong side following the pattern. Topstitch the upper edge of the pocket, mark the pocket position and topstitch the pocket on 0.2 cm from the edge. Place the Flap at the marked line and stitch it on. Turn the flap down over the pocket and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Press the cut-on fly facings to the wrong side. Stitch the zip close to the folded edge of the left fly allowance. Stitch the free zip tape to the cut-on fly facing of the right half. Serge the long edges of the Button Catch. Fold the Button Catch in half lengthwise, right sides together, stitch across the short lower end and turn it right side out. Stitch the cut-on fly facing to the Button Catch on the left trouser half. Topstitch the right edge of the opening, catching the fly facing.
- Fold the Belt Loop strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges and stitch 0.5–0.7 cm from the edges. Turn it right side out and press, with the seam either on the fold or rolled 0.1–0.2 cm to the underside.
- Press the Waistband lengthwise in half, wrong sides together, and serge the lower edge of the inner half. Cut the belt loops to length and stitch them to the upper edge of the Waistband at the marks.
- Stitch the Waistband with the belt loops to the upper edge of the trousers. Stitch across the ends of the Waistband, trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Secure the serged lower edge of the inner Waistband by stitching in the ditch of the waistband seam, then press the Waistband.
- Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make a buttonhole on the right end of the Waistband and sew the button on the left end. Mark and make the buttonholes on the Flaps and sew the buttons on the Patch Pockets following the markings.
