Fitted Jacket with Shoulder Yoke
A women's hip-length denim jacket with a separating zip front, front and back yokes, princess seams, a shirt collar, flared cuffs on the sleeves and a belt fixed into the side seam that closes with snaps at the front.
When To Wear
- In spring and early autumn over a T-shirt, a fine knit or a shirt.
- With jeans, straight trousers or a slim skirt for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through princess seams on the front and back.
Length: To the hip.
Collar: Two-piece shirt collar with pointed ends, set between the jacket and the facing.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves finished with a wide flared cuff, topstitched 0.5 cm from the joining seam.
Closure: Separating zip at the centre front, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Front: Front yokes with a rounded-corner flap caught into each yoke seam; flaps close with snaps. Shoulder pieces join the front and back yokes, with seams pressed onto them and topstitched 0.5 cm.
Back: One-piece back yoke topstitched 0.5 cm, centre back seam and princess seams.
Waist: An interfaced belt is basted into the left back side seam, passes around the waist and is bar-tacked to the right centre front; its free end closes with snaps on the left front. The belt can also be tacked into the side and princess seams.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem and sleeve hems allowance 3 cm.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams, yokes with inserted flaps, a separating zip set with a facing, a shirt collar and punched snaps.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, under collar, back neck facing, under flaps, belt)
- Separating zip
- 4 snap fasteners
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back yoke – 1 piece
- 2. Center back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side back – 2 pieces
- 4. Back facing - 1 piece
- 5. Front yoke – 2 pieces
- 6. Side front – 2 pieces
- 7. Center front – 2 pieces
- 8. Shoulder strap - 2 pieces
- 9. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 10. Flap – 4 pieces
- 11. Collar -2 pieces
- 12. Belt – 2 pieces
- 13. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 14. Cuff -2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, lower collar, back neckline facing, underflap, belt.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facing, lower collar, back neckline facing, underflap, and belt.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out the collar corners.
- Stitch and serge the princess seam of the side and center front PANELs. Press the princess seam of the front towards the center front. Stitch and serge the princess seam of the center and side back PANELs. Press the princess seam of the back towards the center back. Stitch and serge the center back seam. Press the center back seam towards the right back.
- Attach the yoke to the back. Serge the yoke attachment seam. Topstitch along the back yoke at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Place the flaps and underflaps right sides together and stitch. Trim the seam allowances of the rounded corners of the flaps and turn them out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flaps at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place the flap on the front yoke and attach it to the bottom of the yoke between the vertical notches. Attach the yoke to the front. Serge the yoke attachment seam. Topstitch along the front yoke at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Attach the shoulder strap to the front yoke and serge the attachment seam. Press the seam towards the shoulder strap and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Place the belt right sides together and stitch on three sides, leaving the side edge of the belt free. Turn out and press the belt. Baste the belt along the notches to the left side seam of the back.
- Attach the zipper to the edge of the front opening. Serge the outer edge of the front facing and the back neckline facing. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front opening. The stitching is done from the front side. Turn the front openings to the right side, straighten the seams. Stitch the shoulder edges of the front facing and the back neckline facing.
- Stitch and serge the side seams. Attach the shoulder strap to the back yoke and serge. Press the seam towards the shoulder strap and topstitch. Remove basting. Secure the right end of the belt with a 5cm long bar tack to the center front in the topstitching, which runs at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Serge the lower edge of the cuff and the bottom of the jacket. Attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Serge the cuff attachment seam and topstitch 0.5 cm from the attachment seam. Stitch and serge the seams on the sleeves.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- Insert the collar between the jacket and the facing. Stitch the collar into the jacket neckline. Topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the zipper attachment edge. Secure the facing and front facing to the shoulder strap attachment seams with a 1cm bar tack.
- Punch the upper parts of the snaps on the flap, and the lower parts on the center front, according to the markings. Punch the upper parts of the snaps on the right side of the belt, and the lower parts on the left center front, according to the markings. Tip: If desired, the belt can be secured with a bar tack in the side princess seams.
