Velveteen Blouse-Jacket with Collar
A hip-length women's blouse-jacket with a collar on a stand worn open at the neck, a four-button front, side bust darts and back waist darts, and long sleeves with deep buttoned cuffs over a slit.
When To Wear
- In autumn and winter as a light jacket over a camisole or fine knit.
- With straight trousers or a pencil skirt for dressier daytime and evening occasions.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by side bust darts on the fronts and two vertical darts on the back.
Length: Hip length, with short slits at the side seams.
Collar: Collar on a separate stand, interfaced and topstitched; the neckline falls open in a V.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a slit at the lower seam, topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge, finished with a deep cuff that buttons at the slit.
Front: Single-breasted with four buttons and buttonholes on the right front; front facings, with the facings tacked at the shoulder seams.
Back: One piece without a centre back seam, with two vertical darts.
Finishing: Hem turned up 2 cm and stitched by hand. Optional decorative stitching imitating hand stitches along the cuff edges, the slits and the hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar sewn between two stand pieces, front facings stitched to the hemline, sleeve slits and two-part interfaced cuffs, buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Velour or velveteen.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, under collar, stand, under cuffs)
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Collar – 2 pieces
- 2. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- 3. Back – 1 piece
- 4. Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 6. Cuff – 2 pieces
- 7. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Tip: If desired, you can add decorative stitching imitating hand stitches along the lower edge of the cuffs, along the edges of the slits and along the hem of the jacket.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, the under collar, the Stand Collar and the under cuff.
- Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Clip the corners and turn the collar right side out.
- Stitch the two Stand Collar pieces together, sandwiching the collar between them.
- Stitch the darts on the Front and Back and press them.
- Overlock the inner edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the facing on the right side of the Front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Along the buttoned section, understitch the front edge seam allowances onto the facing.
- Overlock the side and shoulder seam edges and the hem of the jacket. Stitch the side seams down to the notches and press them open, pressing back the slit allowances. Stitch the shoulder seams and press them open.
- Stitch the stand with the collar into the neckline. Stitch the facing to the edge of the stand. Topstitch the collar. Tack the facings to the shoulder seams.
- Overlock the sleeve seam edges. Stitch the sleeve seam down to the notch. Press the seam open, press back the slit allowances and topstitch the slit edges 0.1 cm from the edge.
- Press under 1 cm along the upper edge of the under cuff. Place the Cuff pieces together and stitch around the edges. Clip the seam allowances at the corners and turn the cuff right side out. Ease the seams into place and press the cuff. Stitch the upper cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, then topstitch the under cuff in place.
- Set in the sleeves, matching the notches. Overlock the armhole seam.
- Turn up the hem of the jacket and stitch it by hand.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and the cuffs. Sew the buttons on the left front and the cuffs.
