Collared Tie Front Long Jacket
A knee-length women's jacket in silk with princess seams from the armholes, a notched collar with lapels and a front fastened by two pairs of ties knotted into bows. One-piece sleeves with turned-up cuffs, full lining.
When To Wear
- In late spring and summer over dresses or with slim trousers.
- As a light jacket for daytime events and evenings out.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting through the bust and waist, widening gradually towards the hem.
Length: Knee length, 3 cm hem allowance.
Collar: Notched collar with pointed lapels; the under collar is set into the neckline and the upper collar is attached to the front facings and back neck facing.
Closure: Two pairs of ties stitched into the front edge seams at the waist, knotted into bows; the front hangs open below them. Front edge seams understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Front: Centre and side front panels joined by princess seams running from the armholes, seams pressed open.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams from the armholes.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls, finished with a folded cuff turned up at the wrist.
Lining: Full lining attached to the facings, cuffs and hem, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, ties caught into the front edge seam, cuffed sleeves and a bagged lining in silk.
Fabric Recommendations
Silk fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, cuffs, under collar)
- Shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front Side – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Tie – 8 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front Side – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Cuff, Lower Collar
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Cuff and Lower Collar.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Clip the corners and turn the collar right side out.
- Stitch the princess seams on the front (Center Front to Front Side) and back (Center Back to Side Back) and press them open.
- Place the Tie pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch around the outer edge, leaving the lower end of each tie open. Turn the ties right side out, ease the seams into place and press. Place the ties on the right side of the Center Front, align their open ends with the front edge seam allowance and secure them with a backstitch.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: onto the facing along the closure section, and onto the front along the lapels. Turn the front edges right side out and ease the seams into place.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams and press them open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings and press them open.
- Stitch the Lower Collar into the neckline of the jacket, and the Upper Collar to the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
- Fold the Cuff in half and press. Stitch the raw edges of the Cuff to the lower edge of the Sleeve. Stitch the sleeve seam and the end of the cuff in one seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the seam of the right sleeve lining. Press the lining. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and to the Back Neckline Facing. Press open the seam allowances of the collar seams and tack them together close to the seams. Stitch the sleeve linings to the lower edge of the cuffs and the lining to the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
