Military-Inspired Double-Breasted Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• 3. COLLAR – 2 QTY
• 4. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Front FACING – 2 QTY
• 6. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 7. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 8. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 9. Lower SLEEVE – QTY
• 10. Belt – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL – 1 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 3. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Pocket bag – 4 QTY
• 6. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 7. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING, back neckline FACING, center FRONT PANEL, armhole of side FRONT PANEL, armhole of side BACK PANEL, vent section, lower COLLAR; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: center BACK PANEL, side BACK PANEL, lower SLEEVE, side FRONT PANEL, upper SLEEVE.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, back neckline FACING, center FRONT PANEL, armhole of side FRONT PANEL, lower COLLAR, vent section, armhole of side BACK PANEL; hem SEAM ALLOWANCES: center BACK PANEL, side FRONT PANEL, side BACK PANEL, lower SLEEVE, upper SLEEVE.
2. Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch the lower COLLAR to the upper COLLAR. Trim, turn out the COLLAR corners.
3. Place the belt right sides together and stitch on four sides, leaving an opening in the center of the upper belt seam. Turn out the belt, press, and stitch the opening closed in the center.
4. Stitch the relief seams, leaving the pocket opening unstitched.
5. On the right side of the side and center FRONT PANEL, place the pocket bag right side down along the NOTCHES and stitch it. Fold back the seam and topstitch it onto the pocket bag. Stitch and overcast the pocket bag. Make a NOTCH at the pocket opening, press open the FRONT PANEL reliefs, and press the pocket towards the center.
6. Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge line. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH that defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the front FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge stitching: in the fastener area – to the front FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
7. Stitch and press open the BACK PANEL reliefs.
8. Stitch the center back seam. Press the lower vent edge by 1 cm. Press the center back seam and vent towards the center back. Topstitch the center back seam at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the marking, catching the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE.
9. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACING.
10. Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press open the seams.
11. Attach the lower COLLAR to the coat neckline, and stitch the upper COLLAR to the front FACING with the FACING.
12. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Stitch and press open the front SLEEVE seam. Press the SLEEVE hem.
13. Set the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
14. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press the LINING. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACINGS and back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them close to the seams.
15. Fold under the LINING SLEEVES and stitch to the hem of the coat SLEEVE, fold down the excess LINING fabric and press. Turn the coat right side out. Smooth out the LINING, pin the side seams to the coat sides and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. Before reaching 1 cm from the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts of 1 cm in both directions. Fold the cuts inwards and pin to the vent edges. Insert a hand between the coat and LINING, grasp the pinned edges and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem down. Straighten the vent edges. At the upper edge of the vent, fold under the LINING corner and sew to the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the coat. Turn the coat through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
16. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast the buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on the buttons.