Draped Bustier Cami Top

Name: Draped Bustier Cami Top
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5297
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5297

A women's fitted bustier-style top on narrow straps, with a gathered drape across the cups pulled in at the centre front by a wrapped band. The bodice has a centre front seam and princess seams front and back, and closes with a zip in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: lightweight, softly draping silk fabrics, such as chiffon.

Tech. Description

Draped Bustier Cami Top

When To Wear

For evening events and summer occasions, with a pencil skirt or tailored trousers.
Under an open jacket or cardigan.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting through the bust and waist, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.

Length: Ends just below the waist.

Neckline: Sweetheart-shaped upper edge formed by the cups, finished with a facing that is understitched close to the edge.

Front: Two-part centre front with a centre seam, side front panels, and separate cups with bust darts. A draped piece, pleated and gathered, lies over the cups and is gathered at the centre front to a height of 4 cm, then wrapped with a narrow band. The pleats can be hand-tacked to the cups.

Closure: Zip in the left side seam.

Back: Centre back panel and two side back panels. The narrow straps, backed with lining, are adjusted at a fitting and sewn under the back edge.

Lining: Every bodice piece, the cups and the straps are underlined with lining and handled as one layer.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Working with light, sheer silk, underlining, controlled gathering and pleating of the drape, a side zip set under a facing.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight, softly draping silk fabrics, such as chiffon. With sheer fabric, do not transfer markings with carbon paper, as the lines show through on the right side.

Additional Supplies

Satin lining
Separating zip

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Center Front – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Center Back – 1 piece
Side Back – 2 pieces
Cup – 2 pieces
Draping – 1 piece
Cup Facing – 1 piece
Back Facing – 2 pieces
Strap – 2 pieces

From lining fabric:

Center Front – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Center Back – 1 piece
Side Back – 2 pieces
Cup – 2 pieces
Strap – 2 pieces

Working with sheer fabrics. Do not transfer the outlines and markings to the cut pieces with carbon paper, as all the lines would show on the right side of the garment. The simplest way is to cut all pieces with equal seam allowances and stitch all seams at the same width.

Sewing Instructions

Place each lining piece under the matching main fabric piece, baste them together and from then on handle them as one layer.
Stitch the bust darts on the cups.
Stitch the center front pieces together along the centre front seam. Stitch the front princess seams (center front to side front).
Stitch the back princess seams (center back to side back).
Stitch the right side seam of the top.
Place the lining straps under the chiffon straps and baste. Fold each strap lengthwise and stitch 1 cm from the fold. Turn the straps right side out, press and stitch them to the cups.
Fold the pleats on the draping. Run a line of long machine stitches along both sides of the centre front line and along the side edges. Do not pull up the threads yet.
Baste the draping to the upper edge of the front, leaving the edge of the draping free between the notches.
Stitch the cups to the front.
Turn the draping upwards and pull up the bobbin threads to gather it along the centre front line to a height of 4 cm and along the side edges to the length of the cup side edges. Fold the band strip lengthwise and stitch 1 cm from the fold. Turn the band right side out and wrap it around the draping at the centre front. Sew the ends of the band together on the wrong side. Baste the draping in place. To keep the pleats of the drape from sagging, slip-stitch them to the cups by hand in a few places with small stitches.
Press the seam allowances of the left side edges of the front and back to the wrong side and stitch in the zip.
Stitch the cup facing to the back facings and overlock the outer edge of the facings.
Stitch the facings to the upper edge of the top. Turn the facing away from the top and understitch it to the seam allowances 1 mm from the seam.
Turn the facing to the wrong side and stitch it to the zip tape.
Try on the top, adjust the straps and sew their back ends under the back upper edge.
Turn up the hem of the top and topstitch.