Draped Bustier Cami Top

Name: Draped Bustier Cami Top
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5297
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5297

A women's fitted bustier-style top on narrow straps, with a gathered drape across the cups pulled in at the centre front by a wrapped band. The bodice has a centre front seam and princess seams front and back, and closes with a zip in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: lightweight, softly draping silk fabrics, such as chiffon.

Tech. Description

Draped Bustier Cami Top

When To Wear

For evening events and summer occasions, with a pencil skirt or tailored trousers.
Under an open jacket or cardigan.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting through the bust and waist, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.

Length: Ends just below the waist.

Neckline: Sweetheart-shaped upper edge formed by the cups, finished with a facing that is understitched close to the edge.

Front: Two-part centre front with a centre seam, side front panels, and separate cups with bust darts. A draped piece, pleated and gathered, lies over the cups and is gathered at the centre front to a height of 4 cm, then wrapped with a narrow band. The pleats can be hand-tacked to the cups.

Closure: Zip in the left side seam.

Back: Centre back panel and two side back panels. The narrow straps, backed with lining, are adjusted at a fitting and sewn under the back edge.

Lining: Every bodice piece, the cups and the straps are underlined with lining and handled as one layer.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Working with light, sheer silk, underlining, controlled gathering and pleating of the drape, a side zip set under a facing.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight, softly draping silk fabrics, such as chiffon. With sheer fabric, do not transfer markings with carbon paper, as the lines show through on the right side.

Additional Supplies

Satin lining
Zip

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Center front – 2 pieces
Side of front - 2 pieces
Center back - 1 piece
Side of back – 2 pieces
Cups – 2 pieces
Draped cup detail – 1 piece
Front facing – 1 piece
Back facing – 2 pieces
Straps – 2 pieces

From lining fabric:

Center front – 2 pieces
Side of front - 2 pieces
Center back - 1 piece
Side of back – 2 pieces
Cups – 2 pieces
Straps – 2 pieces

Recommendations for working with transparent fabrics. Do not transfer pattern contours and markings to cut pieces using carbon paper, as all lines will be visible on the right side of the garment. The easiest way is to cut all pieces with equal seam allowances and stitch the edges to the same width.

Sewing Instructions

Place lining fabric pieces under main fabric pieces, baste, and then treat the pieces as single-layer.
Stitch bust darts on cups.
Stitch center front PANELs, front reliefs.
Stitch back reliefs.
Stitch the right side seam of the top.
Place lining fabric pieces under chiffon straps and baste. Fold straps lengthwise and stitch 1 cm from the fold. Turn straps right side out, press, and attach to cups.
Form pleats on the draped detail. Along both sides of the center front line and along the side edges, make a machine stitch with a large stitch. Do not gather the pieces with thread yet.
Baste the draped detail to the upper edge of the front, leaving the edge of the draped detail open between the notches.
Attach cups to front PANELs.
Turn the draped detail upwards and gather on the bottom threads along the center front line to a height of 4 cm and along the side edges to the side edges of the cups. Fold the strip lengthwise and stitch 1 cm below the fold. Turn the strip right side out, wrap it around the draped detail along the center front line. Sew the ends of the strip on the wrong side. Baste the detail. To prevent the draped pleats from sagging, they can be hand-stitched to the cups in several places with small, hidden stitches.
Press the seam allowances on the left sides of the front and back to the wrong side and attach the zipper.
Stitch the front facing to the back FACINGs and overlock the outer edge of the FACINGs.
Finish the upper edge of the top with FACINGs. Turn the facing and topstitch onto the seam allowances at a distance of 0.1 mm from the edge.
Turn the facing to the wrong side and attach it to the zipper.
Try on the top and adjust the straps, sew their back ends under the back neckline edge.
Hem and topstitch the bottom of the garment.