Long Hooded Coat with Dolman Sleeves

Name: Long Hooded Coat with Dolman Sleeves
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5186
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5186

A women's A-line coat with dolman sleeves cut in one with the bodice, a lined hood that lies at the neckline when worn down, topstitched princess seams and pockets set into the front panel seams. Single-breasted button front; fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: coating fabrics: lightweight wool coating (drap) or velour.

Tech. Description

Long Hooded Coat with Dolman Sleeves

When To Wear

Autumn and mild winter days, with the hood up in wind or rain.
Over dresses and knitwear: the dolman sleeves leave room underneath.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Shaped through the princess seams and flaring to the hem.

Length: About knee length.

Collar: No collar; a hood is stitched into the neckline. It has an outer and an inner hood, each with a centre seam, stitched together along the front edge in one with the coat front edges.

Sleeves: Dolman sleeves cut in one with the fronts and backs, joined by shoulder-and-overarm seams and underarm seams.

Front: Centre front and side front panels; single-breasted, five buttons, buttonholes on the right front.

Pockets: Pocket openings in the seam between the centre front and side front, faced with lining pocket bags; the pattern also has pocket flaps, interfaced.

Back: Middle back cut on the fold (no centre back seam), with princess seams to the side backs.

Finishing: Princess seams topstitched on the right side, front and back; hem allowances interfaced; shoulder pads.

Lining: Full lining with separate front and back sleeve pieces, sewn to the front facings and back neck facing.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Seam pockets set into a corner of the front panel, a two-layer hood stitched in with the facings, topstitched seams and a full lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Coating fabrics: lightweight wool coating (drap) or velour.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric (also for the pocket bags)
Fusible interfacing (front facings, upper hood, back neck facing, pocket flaps, hem allowances)
Buttons
Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
Middle Back – 1 piece on fold
Center Front – 2 pieces
Side Back – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Hood – 4 pieces
Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece on fold
Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
Back – 1 piece on fold, minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing
Front – 2 pieces, minus the width of the Center Front Facings
Back sleeve – 2 pieces
Front sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facings, Hood (upper hood), Back Neckline Facing and Pocket Flaps. Additionally, fuse interfacing to the hem allowances.

Sewing Instructions

Stitch the back princess seams (Middle Back to Side Back). Topstitch on the right side along the seams, on the back side.
Face the pocket openings of the Center Front pieces with the lining Pocket Bags, first clipping the seam allowances of the fronts diagonally at the corners. Stitch the Center Front to the Side Front and, without breaking the stitching, stitch the pocket bags together. Topstitch on the right side along the seams, on the Center Front. Baste the side edges of the pocket bags to the fronts.
Sew the shoulder seams and the upper sleeve seams.
Stitch the center seams of both hoods. Stitch the lower hood into the neckline of the coat. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Stitch the upper hood into the neckline of the facings.
Place the facings on the fronts, right sides together, and pin along the front edges; pin the edges of the upper and lower hood together. Stitch along the front edges and the hood edge and turn right side out. Stitch together the pressed-open seam allowances of the lower hood seam and the Back Neckline Facing seam.
Sew the side seams and the lower sleeve seams. Hem the coat. Sew the facings to the hem allowance.
Hem the sleeves.
Attach the shoulder pads.
Assemble the lining pieces. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Hem the lining.
Work buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.