Princess Seam Coat with Flap Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 3. Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 4. Upper SIDE PANEL of FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 5. Lower SIDE PANEL of FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 6. Facing - 1 QTY
• 7. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 8. Lower SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 9. Upper COLLAR - 1 QTY
• 10. Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY
• 11. Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY on fold
• 12. Pocket flap – 4 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 13. Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 14. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 15. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 16. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 17. Lower SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 18. Pocket bag – 4 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING fabric: reinforce FACING pieces, center and upper side FRONT PANELs, back neckline FACING, COLLAR, flaps. Additionally, press FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce FACING pieces, center and upper side FRONT PANELs, upper parts of flaps, one COLLAR piece, back neckline FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated FUSIBLE INTERFACING is pressed from the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. Stitch the center back seam, back darts. Press seams open.
3. POCKETS: Neatly stitch flap pieces together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch edges close to the edge. Align the open edges of the flaps with the lower edge of the upper SIDE PANEL of the FRONT PANEL, placing the flap on the right side of the upper SIDE PANEL of the FRONT PANEL. Place the pocket bag on top of the flap, baste all layers. Stitch the flap and pocket bag and turn down. Stitch the second pocket bag to the upper edge of the lower SIDE PANEL of the FRONT PANEL, press towards the wrong side. Baste the pocket opening (upper SIDE PANEL of the FRONT PANEL with the lower SIDE PANEL) with cross stitches. Stitch the pocket bags.
4. Stitch the relief seams of the FRONT PANELs.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
6. Set the lower COLLAR into the neckline.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and FACINGs, set the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FACING and FACINGs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clip curves.
8. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the FACINGs, onto the main garment right side in and stitch the lapels and COLLAR, turn out and press. Secure the COLLAR setting seams together.
9. From the right side of the garment, turn back and straighten the lapel and COLLAR, baste.
10. Bottom edge: lay FACINGs forward. Turn hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and stitch. Turn FACINGs to the wrong side.
11. Reinforce the SLEEVE hem SEAM ALLOWANCE and vent with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch SLEEVE seams, leaving the vents open on the elbow seams of the SLEEVEs. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower SLEEVE parts above the vent mark. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open above the vent. Finish SLEEVEs with a hem. Press the vent edges on the upper SLEEVE parts to the wrong side. Pin the vents, topstitch the vent edges together from the inside.
12. Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, aligning the NOTCHES, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side. Attach shoulder pads.
13. Stitch the cut pieces from the LINING fabric. Attach the LINING to the lower edges of the SLEEVEs, the inner edges of the FACINGs, the back neckline FACING, and the bottom of the garment.
14. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes, on the left, sew on buttons. Also, sew buttons on the SLEEVE vents.