Belted Semi-Raglan Coat
A women's long double-breasted coat with semi-raglan sleeves and cut-on turn-back cuffs, princess seams at front and back, welt pockets in the side fronts and a centre back vent. Worn with a self-fabric belt; fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and winter over dresses, suits or trousers with knitwear.
- For town and office wear, belted or open.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Shaped by princess seams at front and back, gathered in at the waist by the belt.
Length: Mid-calf.
Collar: Notched lapels with a collar on a separate stand; upper and under collar, stand cut double.
Sleeves: Semi-raglan, each made of a front and a back piece joined to the front and back of the coat; the seam along the top of the sleeve is topstitched. Cuffs cut in one with the sleeve and turned back.
Front: Double-breasted, 8 buttons, buttonholes on the right front, front facings cut separately.
Pockets: Welt pockets with double welts set into the side front panels, with pocket bags of main fabric and lining.
Back: Centre back seam with a vent at the hem, secured by a diagonal line of topstitching; princess seams.
Finishing: Topstitching along the front edges, collar, hem and sleeve hems; raglan-shaped shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves, 2 cm shorter than the coat, finished around the vent.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Welt pockets, a collar with a stand and lapels, a lined back vent, semi-raglan sleeves with cut-on cuffs and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, under collar, collar stand, cuffs, back neck facing, pocket welts, back vent and hem allowances)
- Raglan shoulder pads
- 8 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back, center - 2 pieces
- 2. Back, side - 2 pieces
- 3. Front, center - 2 pieces
- 4. Front, side - 2 pieces
- 5. Front facing - 2 pieces
- 6. Sleeve, back with cuff - 2 pieces
- 7. Sleeve, front with cuff - 2 pieces
- 8. Collar, upper - 1 piece
- 9. Collar, lower - 1 piece
- 10. Collar stand - 2 pieces
- 11. Pocket bag - 2 pieces
- 12. Pocket facing - 4 pieces
- 13. Belt - 1 piece
- 14. Back neck facing - 1 piece on fold
- From lining:
- 15. Back - 2 pieces
- 16. Front - 2 pieces
- 17. Sleeve, back - 2 pieces
- 18. Sleeve, front - 2 pieces
- 19. Pocket bag - 2 pieces
- From interfacing: Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facings, lower collar, collar stand, cuffs, back neck facing, and pocket facings. Additionally, press fusible interfacing to the back vent and hem allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facings, lower collar, collar stand, cuffs, back neck facing, and pocket facings. Additionally, press fusible interfacing to the back vent and hem allowances. (Heat-adhesive interfacings are pressed from the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron).
- On the side front panels, create welt pockets: press the pocket facings in half lengthwise, right side out. On the wrong side of the front, press a strip of fusible interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Pin the pocket facings to the front along the marking so that the raw edges of the facings reach the middle of the marked pocket opening, and stitch. Cut the front lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the facings! Turn the facings to the wrong side and baste. On the wrong side of the front, place the upper and lower pocket bags over the facings, directing the lower pocket bag upwards and the upper pocket bag downwards. From the right side, topstitch the facings into the seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the lower pocket bag downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the cut to the wrong side and stitch them to the pocket bags precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch together.
- Stitch the center back seam up to the vent. Press the seam, along with the vent allowances, towards the left side seam.
- Stitch the princess seams on the front and back panels, press open.
- Fold the front and back sleeve pieces with the front and back panels respectively, stitch, and press towards the sleeve.
- Stitch the lower sleeve seams and the side seams of the coat in one continuous line. Press seams open.
- Fold the cuff along the fold line to the right side of the sleeve and stitch from the fold to the mark. Press the seam open. Turn the cuff to the wrong side, straighten the corners.
- Stitch the upper sleeve seams, press open, and topstitch.
- Stitch the collars to the collar stands. Press seams open.
- Attach the collar stand with the lower collar to the neckline. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facings. Attach the collar stand with the upper collar to the neckline of the facings. Press allowances open, clip curves.
- Place the upper collar, combined with the front facings, onto the main garment, right side in, and stitch the front edges and collar. Turn out and press. Secure the collar attachment seams together. Baste the front edge and collar.
- Fold the front facing to the right side. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side. Fold the front facing to the wrong side, press. Press the edges of the vent. Sew in shoulder pads.
- Stitch the lining pieces. Hem the lining so that it is 2 cm shorter than the coat hem.
- Place the lining and coat right sides together and stitch to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neck facing, folding back the coat hem allowance. Turn the coat right side out.
- Smooth out the lining, pin the side seams to the coat side seams, and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. 1 cm before the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts 1 cm in both directions. Turn the cuts inwards and pin to the vent edges. Reach your hand between the coat and the lining, grasp the pinned edges, and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem allowance down. Straighten the vent edges. At the upper edge of the vent, fold the lining corner under and stitch to the vent allowance. From the right side of the coat, make a diagonal topstitch, catching the vent allowances.
- Stitch the lining at the bottom of the garment and sleeves to the hem allowances. On the right front, make buttonholes and sew on buttons according to markings.
- Topstitch along the edge of the front opening, collar, bottom of the garment, and sleeves.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and neatly stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn out and press the folds. Turn under the open raw edge and stitch around the perimeter of the belt at a distance of 0.5 cm.
