Stand Collar Coat
A women's mid-thigh coat with a topstitched stand collar, an edge-to-edge front fastened with concealed magnetic snaps, princess seams front and back and patch pockets. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over shirts, knitwear and trousers.
- Over dresses and skirts that end above mid-thigh.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted and straight, shaped by princess seams joining the side panels to the front and back.
Length: Mid-thigh.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, stitched along the ends and upper edge, turned and topstitched along the edge.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves of shortened (three-quarter) length, with the cap eased and shrunk with the iron.
Closure: Edge-to-edge front with cut-on facings; magnetic snaps are fixed inside the facings, each backed with a small piece of fabric, so nothing shows on the outside.
Pockets: Two patch pockets at hip level with a cut-on top facing, topstitched along the facing and edgestitched to the fronts.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Facings, pockets and under collar are fused. Shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves; the lining front is cut in one with the side panel.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams, a stand collar set between coat and facings, eased sleeve caps and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- Magnetic snaps
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces (with cut-on facing)
- Side – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces on fold
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front With One-Piece Side Piece – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing – 2 pieces (for the cut-on facings), Pockets, lower Stand Collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the facings, pockets and lower (inner) stand collar (heat-activated interfacing is pressed onto the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron).
- Patch pockets: turn the cut-on facing at the top of each Pocket to the right side and stitch it at the side edges. Turn the facing to the wrong side, and turn the seam allowances of the remaining pocket edges to the wrong side as well. Topstitch the pocket along the facing edge. Pin the pocket to the Front and edgestitch it in place.
- Stitch the center back seam, the princess seams (Side to Front and Back) and the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the two Stand Collar pieces together along the short ends and upper edge, turn right side out, press and topstitch along the edge. Baste the finished collar into the neckline, right sides of collar and coat together.
- Attach the magnetic snaps to the facings, placing a small piece of fabric under each. Fold the cut-on facings to the right side and stitch them to the neckline edge over the collar. From the ends of the facings, stitch the collar into the back neckline. Stitch the facings across the lower edge of the coat and turn them to the wrong side.
- Stitch the sleeve seams. Serge and press the seam allowances open. Press the sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side.
- Ease the sleeve cap between the notches with small running stitches and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding length of the armhole. Dampen the fabric and shrink out the fullness with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the sleeve to the coat, matching the notches, and stitch from the sleeve side.
- Attach the shoulder pads.
- Assemble the lining pieces. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings. By hand, sew the lining to the collar seam allowances and to the shoulder edges of the facings. Stitch the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves. Hem the lining.
- Hem the lower edge of the coat.
