Belted Semi-Raglan Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From MAIN FABRIC:
• 1. BACK PANEL, CENTER - QTY 2
• 2. BACK PANEL, SIDE - QTY 2
• 3. FRONT PANEL, CENTER - QTY 2
• 4. FRONT PANEL, SIDE - QTY 2
• 5. FRONT FACING - QTY 2
• 6. SLEEVE, BACK WITH CUFF - QTY 2
• 7. SLEEVE, FRONT WITH CUFF - QTY 2
• 8. COLLAR, UPPER - QTY 1
• 9. COLLAR, LOWER - QTY 1
• 10. COLLAR STAND - QTY 2
• 11. POCKET BAG - QTY 2
• 12. POCKET FACING - QTY 4
• 13. BELT - QTY 1
• 14. BACK NECK FACING - QTY 1 on fold
• From LINING:
• 15. BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• 16. FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• 17. SLEEVE, BACK - QTY 2
• 18. SLEEVE, FRONT - QTY 2
• 19. POCKET BAG - QTY 2
• From INTERFACING: Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front facings, lower collar, collar stand, cuffs, back neck facing, and pocket facings. Additionally, press FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the back vent and hem allowances.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front facings, lower collar, collar stand, cuffs, back neck facing, and pocket facings. Additionally, press FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the back vent and hem allowances. (Heat-adhesive interfacings are pressed from the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron).
2. On the side front panels, create WELT POCKETS: press the pocket facings in half lengthwise, right side out. On the wrong side of the front panel, press a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Pin the pocket facings to the front panel along the marking so that the raw edges of the facings reach the middle of the marked pocket opening, and stitch. Cut the front panel lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the facings! Turn the facings to the wrong side and baste. On the wrong side of the front panel, place the upper and lower pocket bags over the facings, directing the lower pocket bag upwards and the upper pocket bag downwards. From the right side, topstitch the facings into the seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the lower pocket bag downwards. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the cut to the wrong side and stitch them to the pocket bags precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch together.
3. Stitch the center back seam up to the vent. Press the seam, along with the vent allowances, towards the left side seam.
4. Stitch the princess seams on the front and back panels, press open.
5. Fold the front and back sleeve pieces with the front and back panels respectively, stitch, and press towards the sleeve.
6. Stitch the lower sleeve seams and the side seams of the coat in one continuous line. Press seams open.
7. Fold the CUFF along the fold line to the right side of the sleeve and stitch from the fold to the mark. Press the seam open. Turn the CUFF to the wrong side, straighten the corners.
8. Stitch the upper sleeve seams, press open, and topstitch.
9. Stitch the collars to the collar stands. Press seams open.
10. Attach the collar stand with the lower collar to the neckline. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facings. Attach the collar stand with the upper collar to the neckline of the facings. Press allowances open, clip curves.
11. Place the upper collar, combined with the front facings, onto the main garment, right side in, and stitch the front edges and collar. Turn out and press. Secure the collar attachment seams together. Baste the front edge and collar.
12. Fold the front facing to the right side. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side. Fold the front facing to the wrong side, press. Press the edges of the vent. Sew in shoulder pads.
13. Stitch the LINING pieces. Hem the LINING so that it is 2 cm shorter than the coat hem.
14. Place the LINING and coat right sides together and stitch to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neck facing, folding back the coat hem allowance. Turn the coat right side out.
15. Smooth out the LINING, pin the side seams to the coat side seams, and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. 1 cm before the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts 1 cm in both directions. Turn the cuts inwards and pin to the vent edges. Reach your hand between the coat and the LINING, grasp the pinned edges, and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem allowance down. Straighten the vent edges. At the upper edge of the vent, fold the LINING corner under and stitch to the vent allowance. From the right side of the coat, make a diagonal topstitch, catching the vent allowances.
16. Stitch the LINING at the bottom of the garment and sleeves to the hem allowances. On the right front panel, make buttonholes and sew on buttons according to markings.
17. Topstitch along the edge of the front opening, collar, bottom of the garment, and sleeves.
18. Fold the BELT lengthwise in half, right sides together, and neatly stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn out and press the folds. Turn under the open raw edge and stitch around the perimeter of the BELT at a distance of 0.5 cm.